Meet the Puebloans.

Day 2-- too early.  Typically, I awakened a little after 3 am, having slept about 5 hours.  Even taking into account that I'd gained an hour with mountain time, it was not enough.  So I forced myself to try to return to sleep, eventually giving up and using the rest of the night to continue my reading in Ancient Peoples of the American Southwest, one of the recommended books I purchased in anticipation of this trip.  It's actually quite a good read, but, as I discovered in our first lecture from Richard Friedman, our touring archaeologist, presents only one perspective among reasonable and accepted ones regarding the history and achievements of the ancient Puebloans.  Friedman has worked in this field for 40 years and strives to impart far more information than I can take in.  So, after a decent Hilton breakfast and a mind numbing lecture and slide show by Richard, we boarded a bus and headed for the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center.

Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, Albuquerque, New Mexico

There are currently nineteen surviving Pueblo communities living in New Mexico and despite speaking three different languages and multiple dialects, they have banded together to create this center to introduce and illuminate their history, culture and contemporary expression.  As one might expect, there are displays of ancient artifacts, dioramas, videos, all showing aspects of Pueblo life as it was and is.  As the self-guided tour winds its way through Pueblo history, art and culture, one eventually ends up at a very expensive gift shop featuring the work of regional artisans, and, of course, the predictable trove of souvenirs.  The jewelry, pottery and textiles are all of excellent quality with price tags to match!  I nearly bought a T-shirt, but was saved by the absence of one in an appropriate size.  Whew!  There is also a restaurant where we had a lunch of blue corn enchiladas, beans and summer squash.  The tour ended at the dance floor where we were treated to examples of "the butterfly dance," and "the eagle dance."

Butterfly Dance

The Eagle Dance

Around the dance floor there were local artisans displaying and selling their pieces.  These were much more reasonable in price and of comparable quality with the gift shop items, and I was sorely tempted to buy a exquisite piece of pottery.  But, reluctantly decided that I did not want to be responsible for such a fragile item during the rest of the trip.  My experience from the past tells me that there will be ample, future opportunities for a similar, suitable expenditure.  On the way out, I took this shot of a truly arresting sculpture by a contemporary Pueblo artist.

Our next visit was to the Petroglyph National Monument on the outskirts of Albuquerque (if I get nothing else from this trip, I've at least learned to spell Albuquerque).  The monument is situated in the basalt rocks of an ancient lava flow.

The edge of the ancient lava flow

Getting to the actual petroglyphs required a hike of some distance over sand in 95 degree heat.  For the effort it took and the discomfort engendered, I would say that it was hardly worth it.  I saw better petroglyphs at Capitol Reef National Park in Utah last year.  These were pretty unimaginative and scarce, and had obviously been amended over the years to include "Bill" who at some point added his own contribution.  The most valuable lesson for me was that there were other people in this tour who struggled more on this adventure than I did--some comfort to me as I have carried a concern about my fitness for the three mile a day warning that comes with the designation of the Road Scholar activity level of "Let's Go."  So far, so good!

Petroglyphs on basalt with spectator

As clouds began to roll in, I couldn't help but take a picture or two of the high desert on the long, tedious trek back to the bus.

Still hot and sweaty, we stopped at a whimsical restaurant for a dinner that no one wanted since it was less than three hours since we finished lunch.  Nearly everyone selected the "fresh berry salad with salmon," and we headed back to the Hilton for another lecture and slide show by Richard on current innovations in archaeological research and a movie on Chaco Canyon, narrated by Robert Redford.  I think I only nodded of once!  I gratefully fell into bed at 9:30.

Whimsical restaurant in Albuquerque called "Home Range" (I think)

Arrival!

The flight from Chicago to Albuquerque was truly uneventful, delayed take-off (O'hare!!) but a smooth and comfortable three hour flight.  American Airlines provided me with a small bag of unsalted pretzels and a entire can of Coke, not the usual plastic cup fulled with ice.  Upon arrival, I called for the hotel shuttle as the tour directions instructed, and then waited for a hour in the New Mexico heat for the driver to show up.  Checking into the hotel was no problem and the room is satisfactory.  I had to join Hilton Honors to get free WiFi.  Since there is no cost, I can afford it.

The first event of the tour is orientation which we just finished.  It really amounts to no more than an introduction of the tour director and the archaeologist and, of course, each of the participants.  There are 24 signed up, although this evening three were still MIA.  It is far too early to put forward any opinions about the group.  I couldn't help but notice that there are only six men, and a bunch of very masculine-looking women.  We'll see how this plays out!  Tomorrow we begin the tour in earnest with a visit to the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center and Petroglyph National Monument which are more of less local.  More about that later.

I learned something worth remembering, today, though.  I decided to make the trip to O'hare on public transportation even though, when I left Malibu East I still hadn't decide how I would do it.  I took the first bus that came, and it decided my route: Sheridan bus to Foster bus to Jefferson Park Blue Line to O'hare.  The whole trip took about one and a half hours, probably twice as long as taxi or Uber.  On the positive side, it cost a total of $1.35 instead of $45 or $60, and since my time is not that valuable, it seems like a pretty good trade off.  The depression mentality so deeply implanted in my infant brain is alive and well!  O yah, and American Airlines has raised the price of checking a bag to $30.  Outrageous!

Tomorrow, more worth reading and some pictures.

Off again!

I'm starting this blog the day before I leave, just to make sure everything is still working and connected.  My history with technology is fraught with failure and frustration, and, when I am in unfamiliar surroundings, it is even worse!  So, this is the start of a new adventure.  I will resume posting to this site in Albuquerque, New Mexico, tomorrow evening when I have something to report.  My anticipation of this trip is that it will be essentially an exercise in cultural anthropology illuminated by the exploration of important archaeological sites.  I find that I have a lot more interest and even passion for knowledge of ancient people and places than I do of anything that might be identifies as roughly contemporary.  Is it a sign of old age, or meaningful commentary on current events? I can't tell!

The Last Look

The journey home began with a departure from the Fairmont at 6:30 am.  Eight of us had the same flight on Turkish Air to Istanbul, and then our separate ways thence.  Departure meant another pass through customs and much security, and our flight was an hour late in taking off, which caused not a little concern as the time allotted for transfers in Istanbul was not generous.  I'm sorry to say that this experience in Istanbul international was not a great deal different from my first experience there six years ago, chaotic congestion a transfer points, and, now, extra security checks.  As with the last time, an agent had to come out and "fast-track" those of us who were catching the flight to Chicago, despite the fact that it had already been delayed by more than an hour.  The flight home was very much like the flight there, except that there was no turbulence, it was two hours longer, and I returned to my usual practice of not being able to sleep.  I watched a total of five movies, ate two pretty good meals, and arrived in Chicago, miraculously, on time!  Add an hour and a half for customs, baggage claim, and an extra security check, which I am assuming was a consequence of my coming from Egypt, and I was home by 9:00 pm, and in bed in record time, thereafter.  Adding it all together, from the time I got up in the morning in Cairo, until I hit the bed in Chicago is was 26 hours.  The return to CST has not been easy, but I am confident that eventually all of me will finally be back at home.

I've scanned a few "internal" photos from the Valley of the Kings, and Abu Simbel.  They are offered here as a sample of some of the artistic and engineering marvels recently encountered.

Rather typical relief from tombs in the Valley of the Kings

Celestial boat to the afterlife from tomb of Ramses IX

Burial Chamber of Tutankhamen

Wall art - Tutankhamen making offering to Amun-Ra (?)

Ramses II accepts tribute from conquered people - Abu Simbel

Sunlight penetrates the dark at Abu Simbel

But Ptah, God of the underworld, remains in the dark

In the aftermath of a trip like this one, there are always regrets.  I regret that the time that was allotted for the fabulous museums was so short.  It left me with a feeling that my emergence into Egyptian culture and history was superficial at best.  I wish I had known about other tours of longer duration and less intensity.  I wish I had added a stop in Alexandria to the package, and I wish I were better at managing the settings on my point and shout camera.  But, in the final summation, I was a fine trip, and who can argue with being in Luxor with 70 degree temperatures, while the folks at home are enduring a sub-zero deep freeze!  I call that great planning!

-End-

Curious Old Coots Contend with Cairo

The second to the last day of our tour dawned on a rainy day in Cairo.  The travel literature says that February is the most likely season to have rain, and our experience certainly confirmed that prediction.  The temperature was in the low 60's, and the traffic put us in nearly continuous stop and go mode.  I spent a good part of the day perfecting my reading of Arabic license plates.  It will be interesting to see how long this new-found expertise stays accessible to  me.

The pictures from the day are of poor quality due to lighting issues and photography restrictions in virtually every place we visited.  But, here are a few worth sharing.

Early rainy morning view from my room in the Fairmont Nile

I really hadn't anticipated our first destination.  Travel fatigue, I suppose, but I quickly became engaged and delighted.  We invaded the old Christian section of Cairo with churches dating back to the fourth century A.D.  I was immediately struck with the venerable antiquity of these congregations, and reminded of the dominant role Egyptian Christianity played in the early history of the church, something which is easily overlooked by our Roman/western perspective and historical proximity.

Directory to Ancient Churches in Cairo

 The feeling as we entered this complex of buildings and institutions was of entering a closed and secluded world, as perhaps befits a minority community.  I could not help but wonder if this rabbit-warren type configuration was a result of early persecution under the Romans, or a reaction to the incursion of Islam at  later date.  Under either circumstance, the sense of entering a special, perhaps a sacred space was undeniable.

Just an interesting shot inside the Christian complex

The first church we visited was dedicated to the Holy Family and at its rear, displayed through  Plexiglas flooring a cave like grotto in which the Holy Family was purported to have stayed during their sojourn in Egypt.  Unfortunately, again, there were no pictures allowed.  As might be expected, the iconography highlights the church's dedication.

Relief marking the entrance to Holy Family Church

Coptic Christianity has elaborated the Holy Family's stay in Egypt to an extent unexplored in the western Church, and maybe in the Orthodox traditions as well.  I was fascinated by this "map" of the Holy Family's travels in Egypt, and I hope in the coming days and months to investigate this tradition more fully.  This map will have to be my starting point.

The Holy Family itinerary?

The second church we visited was the fourth century Church of St. Sergius, called the hanging church, due to construction techniques used at the time of its building.

Information plaque for the Hanging Church

The Hanging Church

The inside of the church is beautifully decorated in the worn "orthodox" style that befits its age and use.  No pictures allowed, of course, but our timing was excellent because we were able to witness a part of a Coptic mass with a good number of the faithful in attendance.  Whether this was appreciated by other members our tour group or not, I cannot say, but I was gratified to have had even this limited exposure to Coptic liturgy and piety.

Shrine to the Virgin Mary - Church of St. Sergius

Our next stop was in the old Muslim section of Cairo where there are a number of mosques dating from the 8th and 9th century.   We visited a huge one that allowed pictures, but had little to photograph, being stark and unadorned in the fashion of its time.

Mosque interior

Central ablution station (no longer in use)

Perhaps one of the more memorable impressions from this stop was the police presence, insuring that tourists did not venture into the surrounding neighborhood(s).  We spent an hour or so at the Cairo bazaar.  Mohamed had discouraged much shopping on this trip because, he said, most of the things that were available for sale were not Egyptian but Chinese in origin, and for the most part he seemed to be correct.  The one exception, I believe, was the Cairo bazaar which teamed with beautiful and riveting displays in every shop.  Covering several blocks, it seemed more diverse in its offerings than other bazaars I'd seen in the Middle East.  And, there were plenty of things to temp this shopper, had I been able to figure out a way to get it back to Chicago.  Thankfully, good sense prevailed and I left, empty handed, as did most of our contingent.

After a nice lunch in a rather exotic restaurant which was too dark to photograph, we made our way through Cairo traffic back to the hotel.  Along the way we passed the famous Tahrir Square, where Egyptians effectively  protested the government of Mubarck in 2011, and then his replacement Morsi in 2013.  It was obviously a more peaceful time under the present regime.  During the course of the trip, we heard comments both supporting and criticizing the Sisi military oversight, and, people seemed free to speak freely, which says something in itself.

Tahrir Square on an ordinary, rainy day

After a brief rest, we were off to the Egyptian Museum.  This is the famous collection of Egyptian artifacts from the last five of six millennia.   No pictures, allowed!

The Egyptian Museum

The number of arresting displays contained in this building is incomprehensible.  Once again, our time was so brief that the most thorough knowledge we obtained was what we were missing.  Mummies, sarcophagi, jewelry, tools, weapons, statuary, carvings, more than can be assimilated in an afternoon or in a lifetime.  It is no wonder that Egyptology has so many sub-specialties!  I saw again the treasures of King Tut, last see by me at the Field Museum sometime in the earl 1960s, and treasures from many other less famous tombs which nevertheless carry high archaeology value.  I took interest in the Mummies of Ramses II, whom I'm sure would be horrified to know that he has become a tourist spectacle, and of Hatshepsut (maybe) whom the placard stated was chronically obese and had bad teeth.  How's that for a memorial epithet?

Aswan. Adieu!

Our last day in Aswan was just good clean tourist fun.  Plenty of time for a nice breakfast and a reasonable departure time from the hotel made for an auspicious beginning that suited me just fine.  Check-out was easy, our final water shuttle journey, uneventful, and a short (really short) bus ride to the next boat launch kept the pace light and easy.  Our destination was Elephantine Island for a tour of "The Tombs of the Nobles" and Saint Simeon Monastery, and lunch, of course.

Elephantine Island is a desolate place that doesn't seem to draw any benefit from being in the middle of the Nile.  Much to my surprise, we were greeted by a host of camels and their handlers, who, we were informed were going to be an integral part of our exploration!  Some of our party immediately opted out and stayed with the boat which was offered as an option, but the whole idea appealed to me, so I picked out my camel, and we were off.

Elephantine Island Mass Transit System

First stop, Tombs of the Nobles.  These tombs are among some of the oldest in Egypt, dating back to the Old Kingdom.  Their inhabitants were important people of their time, governors, high-ranking administrators et cetera, and in some cases, their wives and families.  Obviously, they are no where near as grand as the tombs of the kings and queens, but impressive, just the same, and for a change, photography was allowed!

Entrance to one of several tombs complexes

Mohamed the educator at work!

 Our next destination was an hour camel ride to the ruins of the Monastery of Saint Simeon.  This monastery was built in the 7th century, and, at its peak, housed 300 monks and had room for 100 guests.  It was built around the "cell" of a 4th century desert monk named Anba Hedra, commemorated as St. Simeon by the Coptic Church.  He was a devotee of St. Anthony of the Desert and like his mentor, a lunatic solitary of that era.   These desert fathers and mothers were all nuts, and their ascetic practices made them even nuttier.  St. Simeon, for example, sculpted a niche into the ceiling of his cell to which he attached his beard (Mohamed said, his hair), and bore an additional hole nearby for his finger to be inserted, so that he would not be able to fall asleep during his endless prayer times.

The "cell" of Anba Hedra

His beard/hair stanchion

The ruins of mud brick and stone are impressive even though they have remained essentially unchanged since the monastery was attacked and destroyed by Saladin in 1173.  Areas like the guest house and the sanctuary and choir are easily identifiable, and I have to admit to feeling a modicum of spiritual power still emanating from the place.  It is hard to imagine what life must have been like for those living in this desolate site 1,500 years ago.  Mohamed said that they supported themselves by making and selling pottery.  To whom?  Where?  It must have been a model of organization and cooperation since the nearest water is the Nile, nearly a mile away and no vegetation to be found!  Like I said, NUTS!

Guesthouse, Saint Simeon Monastery

Choir Apse, Saint Simeon Monastery

As we were ready to depart, we discovered that our camels were missing.  We were informed that the handlers had taken them for water, and they would be back soon, and sure enough, on the horizon, a herd of galloping camels soon appeared.  I have to say that those "ships of the desert" appeared far happier than when plodding along at tourist pace with our unskilled, naive group on their backs.  The most precarious part of riding a camel is getting on and getting off, which I accomplished today on three separate occasions.  The second most precarious part is holding your seat on any downhill grade.  Maybe, stirrups would help?  Or a seat belt!

Me and Lolo the camel (with an attitude!)

Friends for a day (and a fee)

After a nice lunch and much appreciated rest stop at an island restaurant, we were again shore bound to a bus and a short trip to the Aswan Airport.  On our way out of town, I was able to capture a fleeting picture of St. Mark's Coptic Church in Aswan, a site I much regret not being able to visit.  It is a most impressive complex in a highly visible locations and seems to speak to a vital Christian presence in a predominantly Muslim world.  I wish I had had an opportunity to learn more about it.

Saint Mark's Coptic Church, Aswan, Egypt

If there was anything remarkable about our flight to Cairo, I don't recall it.  I think there was enough time for some refreshment of some kind, and I should add that universally, the cabin staff on Egypt Air on all our encounters was courteous and efficient, something, I always notice and appreciate.

Welcome sign at Cairo Airport

Once again we were snarled in Cairo traffic.  Even though our hotel was downtown, it took well over and hour to reach it.  During the ordeal, I decided to learn the ordinal numerals in Arabic by decoding the licence plates on passing cars.  By the time we reached the hotel, I had identified them all except for the zero.  Yes, it was that boring!  However, when we checked into the Fairmont Nile City, all was forgiven, and I luxuriated along with my fellow travelers for two nights in the best run and most gracious lodging of the entire trip!

In the evening, and before a lavish dinner, we had a lecture from an amazingly concise and well prepared PhD in Islamic studies.  She gave the most coherent explanation of Islamic faith and practice I've ever encountered (and I've heard a few).  She was ready to answer any and all questions which the group had, but, in fact, she left us nothing to ask about.  It was that thorough!  So, it was off to dinner and prep for the adventures of the morrow.

Joining the Jet Set at Abu Simbel

Today was the most relaxed beginning we've had this entire trip!  Plenty of time for a nice breakfast and a 9:45 am departure from the hotel to the Aswan Airport for a short flight to Abu Simbel and the two temples built by Ramses II.  We went through the routine check-in and security procedures and boarded the Egyptair jet, only to discover that our tour group were the only passengers.  I couldn't help but reflect on the absurdity of being asked for our seat preference, when in fact, everyone on board could easily have had a aisle or a window, anywhere on the plane.  It was such a short trip that the cabin attendants barely got beverages and "biscuits" served and retrieved before we landed.  We were also the only people in the Abu Simbel airport!  That felt weird!  This must be how the other half lives.

Our Private Jet

Despite some reservations, I'm going to try to write intelligently about Abu Simbel.  There is some disagreement about its purpose.  It is a massive structure carved out of a limestone cliff.  The internal decorations suggest that it was intended as a celebration of the military victories of Ramses II, most particularly over the Hittites at Kadesh in 1274 B.C.  It's location suggests another more strategic purpose.  Built at the site of the Second Cataract of the Nile, it also clearly marks the border between Egypt and the Nubian/Kushite Kingdoms of Sudan, perhaps a clear warning not to transgress into Ramses domain.  (History shows that it was ineffective, ultimately)  For me, the most astounding feature of the Great Temple, dedicated to Amun-Ra (and Ramses, of course), is the precision and engineering genius with which it was built.  It is situated facing East, so that on two days, each year, the sun, at sunrise pierces the dark interior to illuminate three of the four statues at the rear of the temple.  The statues of Ramses and Amun are lit, while the last statue of Ptah, the god of the underworld, remains in darkness.  The dates are February 22 and October 22, the beginning and end of the flood season, but probably more important in this case, the birthday and coronation day of Ramses II.

The Great Temple at Abu Simbel

The interior and even the exterior of the temple is beautifully preserved with some of the most brilliant and refined images we have seen, and true to current practice, there are no photographs allowed.  The excellent state of preservation is a consequence of the entire temple being buried in sand for centuries.  It was rediscovered in 1817 by a Swiss archaeologist, who excavated it and initiated and enforced limited access during his work.

A few yards to the right of the Great Temple is the Small Temple, which was built to honor Ramses' favorite wife, Nefertiri.  It is also beautifully preserved for the same reason, and it is a true testimony to her importance.  The Second Cataract was believed to be sacred to Hathor, and she is the honored goddess of this temple.  Contrary to custom, all the images of Nefertiri are of equal height to Ramses, which attests to the esteem paid to her.  Queens were usually depicted no more than knee-high.  The images on the facade are of Ramses and Hathor, or maybe Nefertiri as an embodiment of Hathor, also a sign of very high rank and esteem.

The Small Temple at Abu Simbel

Both of these temples (which some claim should be the eighth wonder of the ancient world), were saved from inundation under Lake Nassar when the High Dam was built in the 1960s.  A massive United Nations sponsored effort dismantled and reassembled the two temples on the plateau 65 meters above their original location, in with the same orientation.  Unfortunately, the additional elevation has altered the "lighting" at the rear of the Great Temple by one day, still, in my mind, the rescue effort is almost as amazing a feat in engineering as the original builders accomplished 3,000 years ago.

Unfortunately our jet-setting adventure was over, and we boarded the bus for our return to Aswan.  Four hours of Egyptian desert with nary an animal or a bird is a challenge to intentional awareness.  The only thing that was truly memorable about the trip were the speed bumps, placed at frequent intervals, requiring almost a full stop.  I couldn't help wondering, "Why?"  No answer alas, was forthcoming!

Egypt, without the Nile!

This last picture is of the launch site for out island hotel.  Note the bags of pita bread awaiting transfer to the kitchen and dining room of our gracious, temporary abode.

Pita, pita!!