Wither Thou Goest, I Will Go.

The course description for Easter Fire promises, among other things, an experience of identification with the person of Jesus, and especially in the last days of his life.  To that end, day 3 was a sort of recollection of the beginning of his active ministry.  So, it was off to the Jordan River, to the approximate site of Jesus' baptism by John.  I say approximate because no one can say for sure where this even took place.  The traditional site is in the Kingdom of Jordan, and there are Byzantine ruins there to attest to the longevity of its claim to authenticity.  Travelling from Israel to Jordan is rediculously complicated.  So, the Israeli Army allows people who want to visit the location nearest Jesus' baptism site to traverse their mine field (really! a mine field!) and reach the West Bank of the Jordan River.  It's a very functional place with virtually no religious symbolism at all.  Many, many people come there and are inspired to step into the river and even immerse themselves as a renewal of their own baptism, and there are some who are actually baptized with friends and family and clergy all in evidence.  Being proper Anglicans, we settled for a Renewal of Baptismal Vows, straight out the Prayer Book, and a sprinking with polluted water delivered via an dubiously acquired olive branch.  Completely satisfactory in my book!

Scripture tells us that Jesus was "driven by the Spirit into the desert for 40 days," so, our next stop was at the Mount of the Temptation, a desolate mound at the eastern end of the great Judean desert with many visible caves in which to fast and be tempted.  The entire pile is crowned, of course, with a Greek Monestary into which there is no admittance.  We were however, given the opportunity to experience one of the oldest desert monestaries in the Judean wilderness, The Monestary of Saint Gerasimos, a fourth century hermit/monk who pulled a thorn from a lion's foot and made him a pet, and eventually became the head of a semi-erimitical larva which survives, today.  It is truly an amazing place.  In the middle of the bleakest desert erupts this oasis of flowering beauty, most cordial hospitality and impressive Orthodox worship and piety.  Best part of the day!

This is Saint Gerasimos from my growing collection of icons.

As we were already on the outskirts of Jericho, a stop at the sycamore tree which Zaccheus (sp?) climbed (which is just possibly a survivor from the 19th century, certainly no older), an outdoor lunch which was punctuated by frequent announcements and calls to pray from a nearby minaret, an additional stop at another desert Monestary which we could only observe across a very wide and deep wadi, a trip back to the college, and a decent dinner at the Guest House, completed the memory records of the day.

More so than the "religious" sites, I always find myself slightly awed by Jericho.  Here is the world's oldest continually inhabited city.  Archaeological investigations verify that it was already a sizable city 8,500 years ago, and today, it is one of the agricultural mainstays of Isael.  Since it is next to the Dead Sea, it is also the lowest city on earth, and that affects its climate substantially, dates, bananas and others tropical crops thrive with the intense heat and adequate water supply from both the River Jordan and numerous springs.   If I were planning a course, I'd forget the ersatz religious sites, in preferrence to a better understanding of what is going on archaeologically in this pre-historical place.  By the way, they have found some collapsed walls at Jericho, but the evidence clearly shows that they were collapsed centuries before Joshua and his trumpet blowing gang showed their faces.  Maybe they tried to take credit for something with which they had nothing to do.  Trump's antics are nothing new.

When Jesus did this, he rode!

As we were entering hour three of our re-enactment of the Triumphal Entry into Jerusalem, one of my companions, who I'm pretty sure, was feeling the strain less than I, offered the title observation, which struck me as both hillarously funny and insightful.

Palm Sunday, this year will be indelibly etched into my mind.  I shall not have another like it.  We began the morning with our familiar Palm Sunday liturgy and the Blessing of Palms in the college front garden and a procession into Saint George's Anglican Cathedral.

Bishop Suhail Dawani celebrated and preached in Arabic and English, and the church was packed!  it was a great start to a very special day.

A quick lunch at the Guest House, and we were off to Bethphage for the start of the procession from The Mount of Olives into Jerusalem.  Our plans were altered when Israeli police, responding to the bombing of the Coptic Church in Egypt, pushed the safety perimeter surrounding Bethphage another mile back, which meant disembarking from the bus a good two miles from the staring point.  This turned out be be bad news for me, since we had to hurry to reach the starting area, and my hurry ain't what it used to be.  So, I was already feeling some physical stress before the procession even began.

I should pause briefly here to explain that, although by scripture, Jesus began his journey from Bethany  the disciples went to Bethphage for the donkey, or two donkeys depending on which gospel you read)

Bethany is now cut off from the traditional way to Jerusalem by the security wall which the Israelis imposed some years ago.  So, today, Bethphage has to be to starting point.

Gathering at the Church complex at Bethphage was an eye-opener in itself.  The diverse assortment of people and groups, not to mention an offical donkey lent an aire of festivity and celebration which I would not automatically assign to Palm Sunday, even the Triumphal part.  After all, we all know what happens next!

Having failed to do much advanced research, I assumed that we would be processing down The Mount of Olives, which we eventually did, but, from Bethphage one first has to walk up The Mount of Olives, and a steep and difficult walk it is, especially when accompanied by several thousand people, and, remember, I was already feeling the strain.

Miles of marchers, singing, dancing, chanting.  Crowds of by-standers shouting at people who were marching and offering vocal encouragement.  Some groups carried whole amplifier systems, and many guitars and tambourines along with a few brass instruments.  Oh, it is a sight and sound to behold.  Here, I think, a picture is required, maybe two.

There are any number of compelling memories that I will retain concerning this experience.  How exihilarating a feeling it was to be in the midst of so many diverse, but intentional people, all celebrating, one way or another, their faith and common calling as disciples;  how such a massive crowd could show such courtesy and co-operation with no external force controlling them;  how many young people turned out to show their faith, and how endlessly enthusiastic and energetic they remained to the very end!  How obstacles and delays just became excuses for more singing and dancing, and thwarted any signs of impatience or irritation;  how many ways there are to carry, fold, weave and decorate palm leaves;  that people bring small children in strollers and various kinds of carriers for an ordeal like this; that people who are old and crippled seem to be in better shape than I am.  And so on......

One last observation: A large majority of the pilgrims were Palastinian Christians or Arab Christians from other countries sympathetic to the Palastinian cause, and many carried Palastinian flags just like other national groups carried their flags and ensigns.  When the procession reached to Lions Gate into Jerrusalem, the Israeli police confiscated all the Palastinian flags and symbols before the marchers were allowed to enter the city to complete the procession.  It is that kind of senseless discrimination that keeps tensions at such an elevated level in Israel.  One always has to wonder, to what end?

Day 1 - Mob 1

I had a safe and unremarkalble flight to Israel.  Austrian Airlines was lovely, but for me, there is no way to make these long flights pleasant.  That Austrian Air has not been lured into flying the ubiquitous jumbo jets, helped a great deal.  Immagine my surprise at being seated on a plane that sat only five across instead of the eleven or twelve across which I remembered so vividly from the flight to Peijing last fall, and it was an aisle seat, too.  The transfer in Vienna was so routine as to be boring, and the arrival in Tel Aviv remarkablly untroubled, with smooth sailing through Israeli customs, probably, but not certainly helped by the previous Israeli visas already stamped in my passport.  Even the sherut ride to Jerusalem went better than preivious journies. I somehow merited being the second person dropped off instead of the very last, as in previous encounters.

The 4:30 pm arrival at Saint George's was made so much sweeter by the greeting I received from Azzam Bassa, the Housekeeping Super, who welcomed me back, snatched my luggage and had me ensconced in my room in minutes.  A quick unpack and shower, and I was ready for the first event of the course, dinner at Saint Geoorge's Guest House, followed by the usual "orientation" event, overseen by Bashara Khoury, all round fixer, arranger, guide and welcoming old friend from previous courses.  I was disappointed that economical considerations had caused the Saint George's kitchen to close, meaning that all meals would be served at the Guest House instead of the dining room, but I was quickly reassured by the sight of Joseph, last name unknown, who has moved over (up?) to become the chef at the Guest House, which means that the same familiar middle eastern cuisine will be a memorable part of this trip, also.

I fell exhausted into bed at 9:00 pm, and almost slept through breakfast on Saturday, but managed to eat enough to to sustain me through the first of the course-scheduled liturgies.  It was the Orthodox celebration of the Raising of Lazarus.  Our participation was to be part of the procession, in modern day Bethany, from the enormous and jam-packed mass at the local church to the "actual" tomb.

   The procession to the Tomb was orderly, if not particularly pious, and the arrival at its narrow, nearly inaccessable entrance was truely joyful and predictably congested as many of the participants tried to gain entrance to the Tomb as the proper act of conclusion for the celebration.  Thankfully, I had been in Lazarus' Tomb on a previous trip, and felt no need to repeat the dauntingly steep and clostraphobic experience under such contested conditions.  I did find it somewhat amusing to see that there were two burly bouncers, regulating traffic into and out of the Tomb, a necessary precaution, I'm sure.  I think that I am unlikely to see such a sight, again, and I had to wonder what Lazarus would have  thought about so many people trying to get into the very death chamber from which he was miraculously and joyfully released.  What can I say, these thoughts come upon me, unbidden!

Returning to the College, I had time for a quick run into the old city, just to be reminded of the incredible vitality that is part of that experience.  A return visit to the Saint Anne's complex, which occupies the site of the Pools of Bethesda near the Lion Gate, brought back wonderful memories of previous visits.  Dinner in the Guest House, a very long, but interesting "seminar" with an indigenous Rabbi on the practices and meanings of Passover brought day 1 to a close.  This time I made it to 10:00 pm, before falling into bed, exhausted but satisfied!

How Ecumenical Can You Get!

Over a year ago, I became aware that Easter of 2017 was going to have a remarkable character,the main one being that the Orthodox and Western calendars line up together, which is infrequent if not rare.  Additionally, Passover also occurs in Holy Week which is bound to add a good deal of spiritual gravitas to the mix.  Also, Easter is fairly late this year, making Jerusalem weather far more predictable and hopefully more pleasant with winter completed.  My spiritual geek is most excited by the prospect of descending the Mount of Olives with a truely ecumenical crowd of witnesses, revisiting the "Upper Room" on Maundy Thursday, walking the "real" Stations of the Cross on Good Friday, and being present in the Church of the Holy Sepulchur when the Greek Patriarch of Jerusalem emerges from the tomb to announce" He is Risen" in Greek, of course, which I have never learned to say, let along write. I'm not sure that it is possible to experience a spiritual overload, but I am willing to try!

This is enough for a first post from O'Hare.  More to come as these most holy of days run their course.

Bye, Bye Beijing - Bullet Train to Luoyang

Saturday, September 24, 2016

Bye, Bye Beijing - Bullet Train to Luoyang

It seems only fair to make some parting observations about Beijing.  It is emmence!  I always thought that New York was the most intimidating city I'd ever ecountered, but Beijing make NYC look like a non-competitor.  Currently there are 23 million people living in an enormous area which is expanding daily, as new construction of 30-40 story high rises replace traditional and soviet style low rises.  There is so much constructioin underway that the Chinese themselves joke about the craine replacing the crane as the national bird.  In keeping with what we saw in the opening ceremonies of the Olympic Games a few years ago, bigness and the spectacular effect seem to dominate all design and planning.

That is not to say that is overwhelming.  Big city living is pretty much big city living no matter where you are.  Beijing, and for that matter, China in general, seems to have made that more enjoyable on a human scale, and common use of cramped spaces more inhabitable than most.  Lots of green areas and public parks and exercise spaces, and all are constantly being cleaned and swept by an army of municipal workers.  Over all, I have concluded that I could live very happily there, if only I had an interpreter at my beck and call!  Not likely, I'm afraid.  I have also concluded that I am so over packed!  The temperature has been over 80 and often in the 90's during the entire stay.  A couple of light shirts and some shorts would have served me just fine.  I've made a pledge to myself be become better at travelling.  I still have much to learn.

We checked out of our beautiful hotel (thinking we'd never have it so good again, after all, this is Beijing!) to catch a 10 am bullet train to Luoyang, a smaller city of a mere 8 and a half million and much older that Beijing. The journey was incredible!  Constant speeds of just under 300 kilometers per hour, that's somewhere around 180 mph, and smooth as glass, no bumps, no swaying no clickity-clack.  It even had western style toilets!  Maybe we should turn Amtrack over to the Chinese!  

The main attraction in Luoyang are the Longmen Cliff Carvings which date back to the introduction of Buddhism in China.  There, an entire cliff of exposed limestone has been turned into thousands of statues of the Buddha, ranging in size from true miniatures to gigantic grottos commissioned by emperors and powerful nobility, leaving a lasting testimony of devotion to their chosen faith.  It was somewhat upsetting to see that so many of these ancient works of art have been defaced and vandalized over the years, mostly by foreign invaders taking souvenirs or museums for their collections.  There is enough left to testify the the importance of the site, and it has been declared an Enesco World Herritage site, so that what is left will be preserved for the foreseeable future.

The evening of our arrival, we had a delightful exhibition of traditional and ancient Chinese instruments, and a little concert on each one of them.  An added feature was the various performances by the young students of the lecturer, offering hope that another great tradition of Chinese culture and art is being preserved for at least another generation.  Following our extended morning at the Longmen Grottos, we stopped at an agricultural village for a tour of a contemporary village home (serviceable but very plain.  It appears that Chinese only decorate their pubic spaces ornately) and then to an English class in the village school.  Chinese students universally start studying English in the 3rd grade!  We attemped some conversation with them, but they were embarrassed and we know too much English, so the experiment in cultural immersion was, in my opinion, less than successful.  There are 14 of us, and each one was assigned a minimum of 5 students with whom to converse, in a classroom that was over 90 degrees .... Who would expect much more?

It seems that pictures or no pictures, no blog is making out of China, so you'll probably get all of these in one blast.  I'm sure many of the sites I've mentioned are also available on the Internet, if you are really courious.  Those pictures are probably better that the ones I've taken.  We'll have to wait to find out for sure.

Traditions, transistors and triumphs

Saturday, September 24, 2016

Traditions, transistors and triumphs

I"ve not been successful publishing my first blog.  I think that I may be experiencing a similar problem to one I encountered in the Middle East.  Foreign WiFi connections often cannot handle the additional load of pictures.  If this one is successfully published, I'll go back and remove the pix from the first one.  Those who love the pictures will simply have to attend the slide show, which at the rate I'm going, will take about two days to show!).

Days three and four were also quite informative and spectacular.  Day three began with a pedicab ride through what is left of "old Beijing."  This is an area which has been preserved from urban renewal, which means in China, complete leveling of one and two story traditional residences, and replacing them with thirty to forty story high rises.  In Beijing, as in all desirable locations, rents and/or purchasing prices are astronomical.  Condos in Beijing's first ring are priced at 60,000-80,000 yuan per square meter ($10,000-13,500).  Our pedicab ride delivered us to one of these preserved homes for a home cooked meal served by the lady of the house.  Very good if somewhat plainer than the elaborate and abundant food which we have been getting in restaurants and hotel buffets.  The few families that were able to hold onto their homes are sitting on a gold mine.  These properties are even more valuable than the new high rises.  This one we were in, a modest two story dwelling, is valued at $3,000,000.00!  It pays to be picturesque!

From there we visited the Summer Palace of the Ching dynasty.  A greater contrast is hard to imagine!

The last Doweger Empress loved the Summer Palace and even took money from the Chinese Navy to referbish and improve it.  In outward appearance, it is much like the Forbidden City, but smaller, and definately more pleasant, with gorgeous plantings, creative landscaping, and its own man made lake.  It seems that the Doweger Empress, Cixi, rationalized the construction of this lake with naval money by offering it as a possible, future training base for appropriate officers training.  Pretty thin ratiocination in my book. Since it is not that old, one gets some better idea of the life of the last dynasty, sheltered, self indulgent and cruel, easy targets for a revolution.  All that said, they had exquisite taste and most of the outside statuary and internal furnishings are intact....beautiful to say the least.

We finished our visit with a cruse across Cixi's lake in a dragon boat, befitting an exit from so magnificent a retreat, and went directly to Tienanmen Square, the site of Mao tse dung's mosoleum and rallying point for Comunist Chinese displays of power and "superiority."  Like seemingly all things in China, it is huge, and even on a off day, has hundreds of people milling around, admiring the shear grandiosity of the place, and, of course, waiting in line for a glimps of Chariman Mao, himself.  Fortunately, we did not have time for such a diversion, as we had to get back to the hotel for another sumptuous dinner and preparations for the next day's trip to the Great Wall.

I'm sure that I am not the first person to say that the experience of the Great Wall is indescribable!  The size and extent of even the small section which we experienced is awesome, in the true sense of that word. The section we explored contained not only the spanning of extremely rugged terrain, but also contained towers and command posts which would be impressive in themselves, let alone on top of a moSaturday, September 24, 2016

Traditions, transistors and triumphs

I"ve not been successful publishing my first blog.  I think that I may be experiencing a similar problem to one I encountered in the Middle East.  Foreign WiFi connections often cannot handle the additional load of pictures.  If this one is successfully published, I'll go back and remove the pix from the first one.  Those who love the pictures will simply have to attend the slide show, which at the rate I'm going, will take about two days to show!).

Days three and four were also quite informative and spectacular.  Day three began with a pedicab ride through what is left of "old Beijing."  This is an area which has been preserved from urban renewal, which means in China, complete leveling of one and two story traditional residences, and replacing them with thirty to forty story high rises.  In Beijing, as in all desirable locations, rents and/or purchasing prices are astronomical.  Condos in Beijing's first ring are priced at 60,000-80,000 yuan per square meter ($10,000-13,500).  Our pedicab ride delivered us to one of these preserved homes for a home cooked meal served by the lady of the house.  Very good if somewhat plainer than the elaborate and abundant food which we have been getting in restaurants and hotel buffets.  The few families that were able to hold onto their homes are sitting on a gold mine.  These properties are even more valuable than the new high rises.  This one we were in, a modest two story dwelling, is valued at $3,000,000.00!  It pays to be picturesque!

From there we visited the Summer Palace of the Ching dynasty.  A greater contrast is hard to imagine!

The last Doweger Empress loved the Summer Palace and even took money from the Chinese Navy to referbish and improve it.  In outward appearance, it is much like the Forbidden City, but smaller, and definately more pleasant, with gorgeous plantings, creative landscaping, and its own man made lake.  It seems that the Doweger Empress, Cixi, rationalized the construction of this lake with naval money by offering it as a possible, future training base for appropriate officers training.  Pretty thin ratiocination in my book. Since it is not that old, one gets some better idea of the life of the last dynasty, sheltered, self indulgent and cruel, easy targets for a revolution.  All that said, they had exquisite taste and most of the outside statuary and internal furnishings are intact....beautiful to say the least.

We finished our visit with a cruse across Cixi's lake in a dragon boat, befitting an exit from so magnificent a retreat, and went directly to Tienanmen Square, the site of Mao tse dung's mosoleum and rallying point for Comunist Chinese displays of power and "superiority."  Like seemingly all things in China, it is huge, and even on a off day, has hundreds of people milling around, admiring the shear grandiosity of the place, and, of course, waiting in line for a glimps of Chariman Mao, himself.  Fortunately, we did not have time for such a diversion, as we had to get back to the hotel for another sumptuous dinner and preparations for the next day's trip to the Great Wall.

I'm sure that I am not the first person to say that the experience of the Great Wall is indescribable!  The size and extent of even the small section which we experienced is awesome, in the true sense of that word. The section we explored contained not only the spanning of extremely rugged terrain, but also contained towers and command posts which would be impressive in themselves, let alone on top of a mountain.  Rather than trying to describe what I saw, I'll share some of my thoughts while there.  What most people don't realize is that the mountains on which the Great Wall is built, are very high mountains.  So, my first surprise was that we had to take a ski lift (a long one) to even get up to the area where we cound stand on the wall itself.  Once there, I found myself amazed and perplexed by the means by which this colossus was built, all hand labor, with not even a ski lift to transport the enormous volume of stone and fill all the way to the site, which is hundreds of miles long, let alone build and staff such a fomidable structure(s) which have lasted 1,000+ years.  I was exhausted just walking from the ski lift to the base of the wall!.  There is a "toboggan slide' which one can take all the way down, and I was excited to try it out.  In one of the few disappointments of this trip, it was not available to us at the time due to some earlier passenger screwing up and getting stranded mid-

Saturday, September 24, 2016

Traditions, transistors and triumphs

I"ve not been successful publishing my first blog.  I think that I may be experiencing a similar problem to one I encountered in the Middle East.  Foreign WiFi connections often cannot handle the additional load of pictures.  If this one is successfully published, I'll go back and remove the pix from the first one.  Those who love the pictures will simply have to attend the slide show, which at the rate I'm going, will take about two days to show!).

Days three and four were also quite informative and spectacular.  Day three began with a pedicab ride through what is left of "old Beijing."  This is an area which has been preserved from urban renewal, which means in China, complete leveling of one and two story traditional residences, and replacing them with thirty to forty story high rises.  In Beijing, as in all desirable locations, rents and/or purchasing prices are astronomical.  Condos in Beijing's first ring are priced at 60,000-80,000 yuan per square meter ($10,000-13,500).  Our pedicab ride delivered us to one of these preserved homes for a home cooked meal served by the lady of the house.  Very good if somewhat plainer than the elaborate and abundant food which we have been getting in restaurants and hotel buffets.  The few families that were able to hold onto their homes are sitting on a gold mine.  These properties are even more valuable than the new high rises.  This one we were in, a modest two story dwelling, is valued at $3,000,000.00!  It pays to be picturesque!

From there we visited the Summer Palace of the Ching dynasty.  A greater contrast is hard to imagine!

The last Doweger Empress loved the Summer Palace and even took money from the Chinese Navy to referbish and improve it.  In outward appearance, it is much like the Forbidden City, but smaller, and definately more pleasant, with gorgeous plantings, creative landscaping, and its own man made lake.  It seems that the Doweger Empress, Cixi, rationalized the construction of this lake with naval money by offering it as a possible, future training base for appropriate officers training.  Pretty thin ratiocination in my book. Since it is not that old, one gets some better idea of the life of the last dynasty, sheltered, self indulgent and cruel, easy targets for a revolution.  All that said, they had exquisite taste and most of the outside statuary and internal furnishings are intact....beautiful to say the least.

We finished our visit with a cruse across Cixi's lake in a dragon boat, befitting an exit from so magnificent a retreat, and went directly to Tienanmen Square, the site of Mao tse dung's mosoleum and rallying point for Comunist Chinese displays of power and "superiority."  Like seemingly all things in China, it is huge, and even on a off day, has hundreds of people milling around, admiring the shear grandiosity of the place, and, of course, waiting in line for a glimps of Chariman Mao, himself.  Fortunately, we did not have time for such a diversion, as we had to get back to the hotel for another sumptuous dinner and preparations for the next day's trip to the Great Wall.

I'm sure that I am not the first person to say that the experience of the Great Wall is indescribable!  The size and extent of even the small section which we experienced is awesome, in the true sense of that word. The section we explored contained not only the spanning of extremely rugged terrain, but also contained towers and command posts which would be impressive in themselves, let alone on top of a mountain.  Rather than trying to describe what I saw, I'll share some of my thoughts while there.  What most people don't realize is that the mountains on which the Great Wall is built, are very high mountains.  So, my first surprise was that we had to take a ski lift (a long one) to even get up to the area where we cound stand on the wall itself.  Once there, I found myself amazed and perplexed by the means by which this colossus was built, all hand labor, with not even a ski lift to transport the enormous volume of stone and fill all the way to the site, which is hundreds of miles long, let alone build and staff such a fomidable structure(s) which have lasted 1,000+ years.  I was exhausted just walking from the ski lift to the base of the wall!.  There is a "toboggan slide' which one can take all the way down, and I was excited to try it out.  In one of the few disappointments of this trip, it was not available to us at the time due to some earlier passenger screwing up and getting stranded mid-way.  So for me, it was a return trip on the shi lift, a return to the hotel, another amazing dinner and an intriguing performance by the Beijing Opera which just happens to be located in the very same hotel.  I thought the opera was great.  Others thought it was a trial to sit through, and were grateful when it was over.  I was moved to participate in a tee shirt sale that the Opera store was holding.  That should be no surprise to anyone!

Posted by Gary Lawler at 5:50 PM way.  So for me, it was a return trip on the shi lift, a return to the hotel, another amazing dinner and an intriguing performance by the Beijing Opera which just happens to be located in the very same hotel.  I thought the opera was great.  Others thought it was a trial to sit through, and were grateful when it was over.  I was moved to participate in a tee shirt sale that the Opera store was holding.  That should be no surprise to anyone!

Posted by Gary Lawler at 5:50 PM untain.  Rather than trying to describe what I saw, I'll share some of my thoughts while there.  What most people don't realize is that the mountains on which the Great Wall is built, are very high mountains.  So, my first surprise was that we had to take a ski lift (a long one) to even get up to the area where we cound stand on the wall itself.  Once there, I found myself amazed and perplexed by the means by which this colossus was built, all hand labor, with not even a ski lift to transport the enormous volume of stone and fill all the way to the site, which is hundreds of miles long, let alone build and staff such a fomidable structure(s) which have lasted 1,000+ years.  I was exhausted just walking from the ski lift to the base of the wall!.  There is a "toboggan slide' which one can take all the way down, and I was excited to try it out.  In one of the few disappointments of this trip, it was not available to us at the time due to some earlier passenger screwing up and getting stranded mid-way.  So for me, it was a return trip on the shi lift, a return to the hotel, another amazing dinner and an intriguing performance by the Beijing Opera which just happens to be located in the very same hotel.  I thought the opera was great.  Others thought it was a trial to sit through, and were grateful when it was over.  I was moved to participate in a tee shirt sale that the Opera store was holding.  That should be no surprise to anyone!

The Bering, Beijing and beyond.

Saturday, September 24, 2016

The Bering, Beijing and beyond.

It is 3:30 am, on the morning of my. Sixth day in China, and I am just getting around to my first blog!  There is a good reason for my tardiness.  I've been using all my stamina to just keep up the pace.  I'm not alone, of course.  The sudden addition of thirteen hours to the beginning your day tends to be a little disorienting to one's circadian rhythms.  Breakfast conversation tends to begin with "How much sleep did you get last night?"  And things of that sort.  It's getting better!  Tonight I slept straight through from 8:30 to 3:15, a vast improvement from my first night in Beijing.

The morning of September 1, at 5;00 am, having had a restless night in anticipation of the start of my journey.  I started for O'hare at 7:00 am, exactly as planned, and arrived at the airport a little before 9:00.  I zipped through security and was left with a three hour wait before take off.  The United 747 took off exactly on time, and I spent the next thirteen and one half hours eating, reading or trying to sleep.  There was nothing worth watching on the plane's movies (mostly things I'd avoided at the theatre) and sleep, as usual was hopeless, so I arrived in Beijing Capitol Airport at 3:30 pm, the day after I left, twenty hours more or less after wake-up.  But, it was still only 3:30 pm in Beijing.  There was still more on the agenda!  Fetch luggage, go through customs, find tour leader and fellow travelers, make way to the hotel, register, find room, meet for dinner (in the hotel, thankfully) and crash into bed at 7:30, only to be exhausted but wide awake at 12:30 am!  Circadian rhythms,  bah, humbug!

So, that was day 1 and 2.  On day 3, the tour began in earnest, with a tour of the Temple of Heaven complex, which is an enormous public park, as well as a stunningly beautiful remnant of the days of Imperial China.  The entire complex consists of not only the Temple of Heaven, but other buildings and pavilions also used in that as gathering places, sacrificial sites, and even places for the Emperor to change his clothes.  The size, complexity, and engineering of the place is astounding.  Mostly built over 500 years ago, without modern equipment or technology, it is unimaginably awesome, in the really sense of that word.d. Awe is what it was meant to inspire, and it is still doing it's job 500+ years later.

I'm also going to include a picture of me, trying out the exercise equipment at the Temple of Heaven site.

With my mind still trying to assimilate the Temple of Heaven and its surround, our next stop proved to be even more mind-blowing.  The Forbidden City.

The Forbidden City is the larges place complex in the world.  It was the "city" residence of the Emperor and his immediate family and "accociates," wives, children, concubines, eunuchs, pets, etc.  The Chinese Imperium did not create spaces such as the castles one sees in Europe.  Rather, it used a series of very impressing public spaces, and a whole lot of private places.  When one hears a statement like the emperor being sequestered in the Forbidden City, it turns out to be a rather apt discription.  There are stunningly beautiful reception halls, dining halls, audience halls, but the living space are all surprisingly human in their purporsions, rather like the living arrangements of ordinary Chinese people, rooms around a central courtyard.  Of course, all this comes with priceless furnishings and decoration, statuary and landscaping, befitting an absolute feudal potentate.  I'll include one picture, and I have many, many more, but you can probably get a better idea of the Forbidden City, form watching the fairly recent movie, "The Last Emperor."  It shows not only great shots of the Forbidden City, by offers some idea of how it played into the needs of an aging imperial state.

The day came to an end with a dinner out, featuring Peking Duck, what else.  I crashed into bed at 8:00 that night, and slept all the way 'till 1:00!  So you see, 3:15 is really pretty good.

I'm going to post this as is.  I have much more to write, but I never know what the WiFi can handle as far as bits and pixels and all that stuff.  More, later.