Joining the Jet Set at Abu Simbel

Today was the most relaxed beginning we've had this entire trip!  Plenty of time for a nice breakfast and a 9:45 am departure from the hotel to the Aswan Airport for a short flight to Abu Simbel and the two temples built by Ramses II.  We went through the routine check-in and security procedures and boarded the Egyptair jet, only to discover that our tour group were the only passengers.  I couldn't help but reflect on the absurdity of being asked for our seat preference, when in fact, everyone on board could easily have had a aisle or a window, anywhere on the plane.  It was such a short trip that the cabin attendants barely got beverages and "biscuits" served and retrieved before we landed.  We were also the only people in the Abu Simbel airport!  That felt weird!  This must be how the other half lives.

Our Private Jet

Despite some reservations, I'm going to try to write intelligently about Abu Simbel.  There is some disagreement about its purpose.  It is a massive structure carved out of a limestone cliff.  The internal decorations suggest that it was intended as a celebration of the military victories of Ramses II, most particularly over the Hittites at Kadesh in 1274 B.C.  It's location suggests another more strategic purpose.  Built at the site of the Second Cataract of the Nile, it also clearly marks the border between Egypt and the Nubian/Kushite Kingdoms of Sudan, perhaps a clear warning not to transgress into Ramses domain.  (History shows that it was ineffective, ultimately)  For me, the most astounding feature of the Great Temple, dedicated to Amun-Ra (and Ramses, of course), is the precision and engineering genius with which it was built.  It is situated facing East, so that on two days, each year, the sun, at sunrise pierces the dark interior to illuminate three of the four statues at the rear of the temple.  The statues of Ramses and Amun are lit, while the last statue of Ptah, the god of the underworld, remains in darkness.  The dates are February 22 and October 22, the beginning and end of the flood season, but probably more important in this case, the birthday and coronation day of Ramses II.

The Great Temple at Abu Simbel

The interior and even the exterior of the temple is beautifully preserved with some of the most brilliant and refined images we have seen, and true to current practice, there are no photographs allowed.  The excellent state of preservation is a consequence of the entire temple being buried in sand for centuries.  It was rediscovered in 1817 by a Swiss archaeologist, who excavated it and initiated and enforced limited access during his work.

A few yards to the right of the Great Temple is the Small Temple, which was built to honor Ramses' favorite wife, Nefertiri.  It is also beautifully preserved for the same reason, and it is a true testimony to her importance.  The Second Cataract was believed to be sacred to Hathor, and she is the honored goddess of this temple.  Contrary to custom, all the images of Nefertiri are of equal height to Ramses, which attests to the esteem paid to her.  Queens were usually depicted no more than knee-high.  The images on the facade are of Ramses and Hathor, or maybe Nefertiri as an embodiment of Hathor, also a sign of very high rank and esteem.

The Small Temple at Abu Simbel

Both of these temples (which some claim should be the eighth wonder of the ancient world), were saved from inundation under Lake Nassar when the High Dam was built in the 1960s.  A massive United Nations sponsored effort dismantled and reassembled the two temples on the plateau 65 meters above their original location, in with the same orientation.  Unfortunately, the additional elevation has altered the "lighting" at the rear of the Great Temple by one day, still, in my mind, the rescue effort is almost as amazing a feat in engineering as the original builders accomplished 3,000 years ago.

Unfortunately our jet-setting adventure was over, and we boarded the bus for our return to Aswan.  Four hours of Egyptian desert with nary an animal or a bird is a challenge to intentional awareness.  The only thing that was truly memorable about the trip were the speed bumps, placed at frequent intervals, requiring almost a full stop.  I couldn't help wondering, "Why?"  No answer alas, was forthcoming!

Egypt, without the Nile!

This last picture is of the launch site for out island hotel.  Note the bags of pita bread awaiting transfer to the kitchen and dining room of our gracious, temporary abode.

Pita, pita!!