It's All About Foot Washing.

Perhaps my focus has been directed toward a different understanding of the importance of Maundy Thursday, because I have always thought that the most important thing about the observances of this day was the Institution of the dominical sacrament of the Lord's Supper.  Of the three Holy Thursday services I attended today, only the Anglican one celebrated the Eucharist.  Of course, it also included foot washing as the focus, but at least it's wasn't the central act of worship!

The Maundy Thursday experience in Jerusalem began with a walking trip to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church foot washing ceremony on the roof of the Church of the Holy Sepulchur.  Our accompanying lecturer told of a time when the Ethiopians had a place within the church, but politics and luck turned against them, at some point, and they lost out to the Copts and were relegated to the roof.  I'm sure that was seen as a come down.  But from the perspective of worship space, the roof serves them very well.  There was a very large turn out for the celebration with many highly decorated clergy and four bishops, including the Archbishop in attendance.

Ethiopian services can be very hard to follow, and this was no exception.  The prominant figures sat up on a dias sort of thing, and the number of people seated there increased substantially through out the service.  It may have been an intended part of the service, but it looked more like dignitaries were seated as they arrived.  Liturgical time in many of the eastern churches is pretty flexible.  At one point there was even a kind of procession of additional chairs as the number of participants out grew the places for them to sit. 

Several different chants accompanied the service, and in Ethiopian fashion usually involved two or three singers, each contributing his own chant line, not necessarily the same one, and not necessarily even in the same key.  It is an unusual sound to the western ear.  At one point, a large book was brought in and passages were read, each with its own chant response.  Eventually something was blessed, and getting some of it, became the focus of all the gathered faithful.  It turns out to be a plant which is associated with cleanliness, and getting a piece of it brings the hint of spiritual purity.  At any rate, while I saw no foot washing, it was by far the most colorful and unpredictable service I have witnessed this trip.

We had arrived around 10:30 for a service which began sometime later.  When it actually began is open to some debate.  However, the two things which aren't debatable are the the service lasted until after 1:00, and forced us into literally eating a lunch on the run, so that we could make our next appointed service at the Armenian Cathedral of Saint James the Less and the unseasonable heat up on the roof which made such a long service uncomfortable and slightly dangerous for some people.

If the Ethiopians seem rather relaxed and casual, the Armenians, through past experience, are the exact opposite!  Decorum is strictly enforced.  No shorts, no sleeveless shirts, no crossing of legs, and I'm sure there are others which I am unlikely to violate, so I'm not aware of them.

The Armenian service was dignified and accompanied throughout by beautiful chanting, provided by a men's choir, made up in part from the students attending the seminary located in the complex.  At a predictable point in the service, after the reading, the bishop left the sanctuary and was reverted in "foot washing apparel" at which time he washed the feet of the other clergy who were with him, accompanied by more glorious chanting.  At the end, he returned to his episcopal splendor for a blessing and dismissal to the assembly.  A very different experience than with the Ethiopians.

The last service of the day was at Saint George's Cathedral, with the liturgy with which we are familiar, from the Book of Common Prayer.  As with nearly all services at St. George's, it was bilingual, some in English, some in Arabic, with the sermon in both.  At the conclusion of the service, however, rather than going to an altar of repose, we "processed" to the Garden of Gethsemane for a few scripture readings and  some reflective time.  It was a most intense feeling to actually be in the Garden of Gethsemane on Maundy Thursday, contemplating the events which took place there 2,100 years ago.

From the college, the route is entirely down hill.  While the rest of the participants seemed happy to remain a while, and to walk back (up hill all the way) I chose to take a taxi.  Had I attempted to walk, I afraid I'd have never made it.  I arrive back at the college relaxed with time for a cup of tea before bed.  In mature years, one should learn to take it easy at the end of a long day.  After all, there is nothing to prove any more to anyone but oneself.