Sunday, September 8, 2019

Meet the Puebloans.

Day 2-- too early.  Typically, I awakened a little after 3 am, having slept about 5 hours.  Even taking into account that I'd gained an hour with mountain time, it was not enough.  So I forced myself to try to return to sleep, eventually giving up and using the rest of the night to continue my reading in Ancient Peoples of the American Southwest, one of the recommended books I purchased in anticipation of this trip.  It's actually quite a good read, but, as I discovered in our first lecture from Richard Friedman, our touring archaeologist, presents only one perspective among reasonable and accepted ones regarding the history and achievements of the ancient Puebloans.  Friedman has worked in this field for 40 years and strives to impart far more information than I can take in.  So, after a decent Hilton breakfast and a mind numbing lecture and slide show by Richard, we boarded a bus and headed for the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center.

Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, Albuquerque, New Mexico
There are currently nineteen surviving Pueblo communities living in New Mexico and despite speaking three different languages and multiple dialects, they have banded together to create this center to introduce and illuminate their history, culture and contemporary expression.  As one might expect, there are displays of ancient artifacts, dioramas, videos, all showing aspects of Pueblo life as it was and is.  As the self-guided tour winds its way through Pueblo history, art and culture, one eventually ends up at a very expensive gift shop featuring the work of regional artisans, and, of course, the predictable trove of souvenirs.  The jewelry, pottery and textiles are all of excellent quality with price tags to match!  I nearly bought a T-shirt, but was saved by the absence of one in an appropriate size.  Whew!  There is also a restaurant where we had a lunch of blue corn enchiladas, beans and summer squash.  The tour ended at the dance floor where we were treated to examples of "the butterfly dance," and "the eagle dance."

Butterfly Dance

The Eagle Dance
Around the dance floor there were local artisans displaying and selling their pieces.  These were much more reasonable in price and of comparable quality with the gift shop items, and I was sorely tempted to buy a exquisite piece of pottery.  But, reluctantly decided that I did not want to be responsible for such a fragile item during the rest of the trip.  My experience from the past tells me that there will be ample, future opportunities for a similar, suitable expenditure.  On the way out, I took this shot of a truly arresting sculpture by a contemporary Pueblo artist.


Our next visit was to the Petroglyph National Monument on the outskirts of Albuquerque (if I get nothing else from this trip, I've at least learned to spell Albuquerque).  The monument is situated in the basalt rocks of an ancient lava flow.

The edge of the ancient lava flow

Getting to the actual petroglyphs required a hike of some distance over sand in 95 degree heat.  For the effort it took and the discomfort engendered, I would say that it was hardly worth it.  I saw better petroglyphs at Capitol Reef National Park in Utah last year.  These were pretty unimaginative and scarce, and had obviously been amended over the years to include "Bill" who at some point added his own contribution.  The most valuable lesson for me was that there were other people in this tour who struggled more on this adventure than I did--some comfort to me as I have carried a concern about my fitness for the three mile a day warning that comes with the designation of the Road Scholar activity level of "Let's Go."  So far, so good!

Petroglyphs on basalt with spectator

As clouds began to roll in, I couldn't help but take a picture or two of the high desert on the long, tedious trek back to the bus.

Still hot and sweaty, we stopped at a whimsical restaurant for a dinner that no one wanted since it was less than three hours since we finished lunch.  Nearly everyone selected the "fresh berry salad with salmon," and we headed back to the Hilton for another lecture and slide show by Richard on current innovations in archaeological research and a movie on Chaco Canyon, narrated by Robert Redford.  I think I only nodded of once!  I gratefully fell into bed at 9:30.
Whimsical restaurant in Albuquerque called "Home Range" (I think)





Friday, September 6, 2019

Arrival!

The flight from Chicago to Albuquerque was truly uneventful, delayed take-off (O'hare!!) but a smooth and comfortable three hour flight.  American Airlines provided me with a small bag of unsalted pretzels and a entire can of Coke, not the usual plastic cup fulled with ice.  Upon arrival, I called for the hotel shuttle as the tour directions instructed, and then waited for a hour in the New Mexico heat for the driver to show up.  Checking into the hotel was no problem and the room is satisfactory.  I had to join Hilton Honors to get free WiFi.  Since there is no cost, I can afford it.

The first event of the tour is orientation which we just finished.  It really amounts to no more than an introduction of the tour director and the archaeologist and, of course, each of the participants.  There are 24 signed up, although this evening three were still MIAIt is far too early to put forward any opinions about the group.  I couldn't help but notice that there are only six men, and a bunch of very masculine-looking women.  We'll see how this plays out!  Tomorrow we begin the tour in earnest with a visit to the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center and Petroglyph National Monument which are more of less local.  More about that later.

I learned something worth remembering, today, though.  I decided to make the trip to O'hare on public transportation even though, when I left Malibu East I still hadn't decide how I would do it.  I took the first bus that came, and it decided my route: Sheridan bus to Foster bus to Jefferson Park Blue Line to O'hare.  The whole trip took about one and a half hours, probably twice as long as taxi or Uber.  On the positive side, it cost a total of $1.35 instead of $45 or $60, and since my time is not that valuable, it seems like a pretty good trade off.  The depression mentality so deeply implanted in my infant brain is alive and well!  O yah, and American Airlines has raised the price of checking a bag to $30.  Outrageous!

Tomorrow, more worth reading and some pictures.

Thursday, September 5, 2019

Off again!

I'm starting this blog the day before I leave, just to make sure everything is still working and connected.  My history with technology is fraught with failure and frustration, and, when I am in unfamiliar surroundings, it is even worse!  So, this is the start of a new adventure.  I will resume posting to this site in Albuquerque, New Mexico, tomorrow evening when I have something to report.  My anticipation of this trip is that it will be essentially an exercise in cultural anthropology illuminated by the exploration of important archaeological sites.  I find that I have a lot more interest and even passion for knowledge of ancient people and places than I do of anything that might be identifies as roughly contemporary.  Is it a sign of old age, or meaningful commentary on current events? I can't tell!