TGAGA in Banff - Days 6 & 7 - Hot Springs and Parting Glances

The final two days of The Great American Get Away in Banf felt more like a vacation.  Later starting times and a more leisurely pace gave everyone some recuperative space and unclaimed hours to pursue personal interests.

The major activity for Friday was a site visit to the original hot springs which inspired the growth and development of Banff and the entire region.  Three railroad workers who were left behind when the railway construction moved further west, decided to look around, hoping to find precious minerals and the opportunity to strike it rich.  What they found was a hot spring which had been known and used as a sacred site by the local indigenous tribes for centuries.  They immediately attempted to lay exclusive claim to it, but were frustrated by the Canadian Government, who also saw great potential as a tourist/health destination, and a possible revenue source for completing the railroad, which was costing much more money than had been anticipated.

Hot Springs Basin, Banff National Park

The Canadian government paid the men a "discoverer's fee" and designated the 64 square kilometers around the spring to be Canada's first national park.  Not long after that, the head of the Canadian National Rail Road, built a luxury hotel utilizing waters from the spring for a spa for the guests and visitors to the hotel.  There have been several iterations of of that first hotel following some destructive fires.  But, it stands, today on the same spot, much expanded and more of less modernized, still catering to the rich and famous.  A quick visit there demonstrates that there are still plenty of people in the world who fit easily into that profile.

Banff Springs Hotel - 2018

The rest of the day and evening were unscheduled free time which I spent looking around downtown Banff and locating a restaurant in which to eat dinner.  A group had loosely formed around the idea of meeting at "The Maple Leaf" at 6:00 pm, and I though it best if I located it in advance.  The meal was excellent, if more expensive than I am accustomed paying.  However to company was excellent, and aside from the price, there was nothing to fault in service or dining fare.  I even walked back to the Center (not an easy stroll!) and crashed into bed before 10:00  pm.

Day 7 also appeared to be easy on the energy expenditures.  Lecture on "Women of the Rockies" at 9:00 am, and another excursion in and around the Banff area.  First stop was another lake, this time, "Two Jack Lake," a pretty place set in a rugged mountain location.  For the untrained eye, it looks like the other lakes that I have posted.  However, there was one unique feature to this stop which makes it memorable.  There were skin-divers swimming in the water, which is so cold, we were told, that one would loose consciousness in minutes if unprotected.  What human being will get up to in pursuit of adventure and entertainment!

Insane divers in Two Jack Lake

We visited momentarily another lake, Minnewanka, which is the largest and deepest lake in Banff because it is also part of a hydro-electric power operation which has raised the overall depth of the lake by some 40 meters.  As we were leaving Minnewanka, we were treated to our first real sighting of native wild life.  An elk feeding beside the road gave everyone an emotional lift and a great photo opportunity. 

Young Elk, feeding at Lake Minnewanka

A walk-through at the Banff Springs Hotel lobby and observation platform marked the end of the excursions in this program.  All that was left was an afternoon viewing of the Banff Center Mountain Film Festival, an annual event which draws people who love mountains, mountain scenery, personal mountain stories and mountain history.  The program was made up of approximately a dozen short films, most lasting less than ten minutes.  I couldn't get my hearing aids adjusted so that I could really understand most of the dialogue, and, unless one is a fanatic mountain enthusiast, the entire presentation went on about one and a half hours longer than necessary.

That was followed by a "reception" to which all the cougars, elk and wolves were also invited, where photos of the various groups were shown on a projection screen, and a free glass of wine got everyone talking loudly enough to be heard.  This is the sort of social arrangement from which I flee.  Hearing aids do not help in situations with lots and ambient noise, and the conversation is usually inane.  I calculated my escape and made it happen in record time, back to the quiet and solitude of my room.

Tomorrow morning, this merry band departs for their various homes.  I feel that it's time to go, and so I will happily take my appointed bus at the appointed time to Calgary, and then on to Chicago.  I will be making a summation post in a day or two.  In the meantime, I'll add one more picture to this blog.  I think it could be called:  Banff through the rear window.

Banff, Adieu!

TGAGT in Banff - Day 5 - Going out for Ice!

Another early start! Board the bus at 7:30, leave at 7:45.  Morning ablutions, breakfast, bag lunch pick-up, all before that.  But, it was a mild, partly sunny morning that held a lot of promise.  Our ultimate destination was the Athabasca Glacier, one of sever emenating from the Columbia Ice Field in Jasper National Park, 60+ miles north of Banff.  Again, we headed west, but only for a short distance until reaching the Columbia Icefield Parkway.  Then, miles of break-taking scenery through some of the most rugged mountain terrain in Canada.  Truly towering peaks loomed on every side.

Roadside scenery on the Columbia Icefield Parkway

Our first stop was at Bow Lake, the very source of the ever present Bow River that flows through Banff and parallels the stretch of the Trans Canada Highway that we have traversed many times on this trip.  It is a beautiful lake, glacier fed, as almost all the lakes we have visited are, with cold, pristine water in a gorgeous setting.  But appearances are deceiving.  Our Guide warned us that the water in the lake is polluted with industrial toxins, air-born from Asia years ago, that precipitate out in the cold air and settle on Bow glacier, then into the lake, and then into the area food chain, affecting most severely the bird population.  There is no remedy since glaciers melt at their own pace ..... which is glacial!  The explanation of why this lake and not others seems to be that the distance from the glacier to the lake is very short, not allowing sufficient time to "purify' the run-off.  Still, it looks beautiful!

Bow Lake and Bow Glacier, Banff National Park

Less than half an hour later, we were at another spectacular lake and glacier.  This time it was Peyto Lake with it's stunning color, again produced by the mysterious rock flower which the glaciers produce.  We were told, yesterday, that rock flour looks and feels like wheat flour and can be used in the ways that other flour is used, but it tastes bad and functions as a strong laxative.  I'm curious to know who and when made that discovery!  Visit after visit to these mountain lakes and glaciers, we are told how far the glaciers have retreated from their extent even fifty years ago, often measured in miles.  So far, no one has blamed "climate change or global warming ......... however" is always an addendum to each explanation.  The lake is situated at Bow Summit, at around 7,000 feet, and marks the location of the continental divide, in this case, divided three ways. From this point, water flows to the east, the west or the north.  The only such location in North America.

Peyto Lake, Bow Summit, Jasper National Park

Our pace was slowed somewhat by highway maintenance and repairs along the way.  But, we were brought to a complete stop by some avalanche prevention that was going on atop one of the sheer rock walls adjacent to the road.  Apparently this is a regular occurrence on the Columbia Icefield Parkway.  Having cut through mountains in order to construct highways, the newly exposed rock is prone to dislodge itself and crash down on the roadway.  Highway repellers were looking for future problems in hopes of reducing future rock cascades.

After a half hour delay, we were again underway to the Columbia Ice Fields.  Along the way, on every side, more beautiful scenery as we rose and fell through numerous heights and lows along the way.  Occasional waterfalls could be seen as the snow from only a few weeks ago, continues to melt and streams speed down into the valleys.  Rapidly flowing water is everywhere.  It only makes sense that some of it will result in elegant waterfalls down sharp cliffs.

We stopped at one particular scenic vista to eat our lunch in the bus.  Our appointed time at the glacier was 12:30, and upon arriving, it was clear why timing was so important.  This is a destination which, I'm sure, rivals Lake Louise for popularity.  We were loaded onto a shuttle bus to take us on a four minute trip to the glacier staging area.  There we transferred to one of the several glacier vehicles and taken to a specific area on the Athabasca Glacier, itself.

Specially built vehicle for glacier transport at Alhabasca Glacier

Our allotted time on the glacier was 15 minutes.  We were very fortunate that the weather was good and the temperature and wind were quite moderate.  Having spent a good part of my life in northern latitudes, walking on ice was not particularly novel.  However, walking on mile deep ice provided a unique and memorable experience.

In the 1960's, the glacier came down to the road.  This picture captures the amount of loss that has occurred in the intervening time.  Predictions are that in less than one hundred years, it will be entirely gone and only a lake will be left.

Alhabasca Glacier, 2018, Jasper National Park

Rush Hour on Alhabasca Glacier, Jasper National Park

Alhabasca Glacier in only one of eight glaciers emanating from the Columbia Ice Field, but it is the one which has been most successfully developed to accommodate the tourists lust for safe adventures in exotic places.  The Canadians seem to have done an excellent job of this, judging by the popularity of the sites we have visited, as they have with so many other contemporary challenges and opportunities.

Our trip back to Banff was, of course, another visual feast on the landscape on Jasper and Banff National Parks.  We arrived back in by 5:30 with plenty of time for a dinner of German fare and a quiet night to rest and recuperate.

TGAGA in Banff - Day 4 -Far More Bear-able!

Having learned an important lesson the hard way, I indulged in a weather search for Lake Louise, the Bear's destination for today.  At 5:30 am, the temperature was 5 degrees, C, which I calculate by my lazy man shorthand method to be about 39 degrees, F.  The predicted high was around 58.  I was determined to be prepared for anything!

We were not due to leave until 8:30 am, so, after outfitting myself with what warm clothes I had, I set out for a late breakfast at 7:45, ate sumptuously, and met the other Bears at the appointed time, and we were off, headed west, once again to Lake Louise.  Within half and hour, we were stopped dead on the highway.  Inching ever so slowly forward we eventually discovered the cause of the delay.  A black bear had somehow gotten through the electric fence which parallels the entire highway to keep animals and speeding cars apart, and was making its way, at its own pace, toward an access gate that has been  opened by wildlife officers who were waiting patiently for the miscreant to return to its safe(r) haven.

Canada, at least in these national parks, has gone to get lengths to protect wildlife from harm.  The barrier fences are only part of an effort that includes migratory overpasses and underpasses for roaming critters, and strict laws about human animal interactions, especially feeding.  It seems to be working, at least for one peripatetic bear this morning.

Bearing with this schedule, we arrived at the Lake Louise ski area by 10:00 am, and were treated with an enlightening lecture/program about bears!  Our lecturer introduced herself as someone who has had working relations with bears, wolves and coyotes for most of her adult life.  Without going into detail, I think it is safe to say that she mesmerized our Bear-clan for over and hour with facts and antidotes that greatly expanded my knowledge of a subject I didn't know I was interested in.  A hardly necessary lunch followed (I'd only finished a large breakfast three hours before), and we got in line to ride the ski lift up the mountain for a better view of the area.  Our destination was about half-way up, since the top ski lift was not running in the summer months, but half-way proved to be adequate to our quest for spectacular scenery.  There were hopes of seeing bears on the mountain side.   But the only one we saw was a great distance away and make its appearance while we were still eating our lunch.  We may have seen the same bear, only farther away, on the way down the mountain just before departure.  Everyone seemed to be bearing their disappointment well and without paws (sic) for regrets.

View from Lake Louise Ski Slope toward Lake Louise

Amazing vistas in every direction could not hold us from our next destination which was Moraine Lake.   Our guide said that this was a lake created by an avalanche and was supplied entirely by run-of from the surrounding mountains.  It is a beautiful blue color, again caused by "rock flour," that mysterious substance that made Emerald Lake green.  It all has something to do with light absorbing properties, but the result is truly lovely to behold.  I don't understand the physics of a screwdriver so optics is a complete mystery.  Getting this picture required some stair climbing and a fair amount of huffing and puffing.  I'm sure it's the altitude and not my age and physical condition that is responsible!  That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Moraine Lake, near Lake Louise, Alberta

Then it was on to Lake Louise.  That Lake Louise is a tourist mecca is a terrible understatement!  Our guide said that often there are as many as 2,000 people, all standing at the shore line, taking and posing for pictures, or taking numerous selfies which has become the current passion.  We were lucky, we were told.  There were probably only half that many there, today.  So we were still able to find a place to snap a picture or two.  Lake Louise has a long history as a tourist destination and it certainly deserves it.  Many famous people have stayed there and still do.  The present hotel has approximately 500 rooms at around $300 a night, we were told. Too bad that the tourists are the main obstacle to enjoying its palpable serenity and unrivaled beauty.

Lake Louise with its glacial source, Alberta

The program says, "Dinner on your own,"  Some of our number were hungry as bears and were dropped off downtown to sample local restaurant fare.  I returned, gratefully to my room, about which I will comment at a later time.  Dinner for me was at the campus "Bistro."  I had a huge pulled-pork sandwich and a salad with garlic and tahini dressing.  Good company and good conversation with a couple of other bears who showed up to forage at the same time.  It's been a full and entirely bear-able day to remember.  It's time to call it!

TGAGT in Banff - Day 3 - Fall(s)

It was a beautiful morning here in Banff.  The temperature, a bracing 43 degrees, Fahrenheit.  Had I only known that was approximately the high temperature for the day, I would have radically altered my wardrobe selections!  The only times during the entire day, I was adequately dressed were the times spent on the bus.  I should have brought fall clothing instead of "cool" summer stuff.

Pretty promptly at 8:00 am we headed west toward the continental divide. Our initial destination was Takakkow Falls, the third largest in Canada, at 700+ feet.  We traveled over the Trans Canada Highway which basically parallels the Trans Canada Railway, until we turned off on an access road which was narrow and windy, and at one point, required our driver to back up a switchback so that we could proceed!  We caught several views of the falls before we were actually there, each more impressive than the last.  Finally, we stood across from the splash zone, engulfed by the mist, and the slow drizzle that had begun by this time.  It was still in the 40's.  Takakkow means "It is magnificent" in Cree, and so it is.  Probably even better in sunshine and 75 degrees!

Takakkaw Falls: It is magnificent!

After a return trip  on the same mountain road (this time backing down the switchbacks), we were again on the Trans Canada Highway.   At some point I'm not at all clear about, we left Banff National Park and entered Yoho National Park.  Yoho, we were told, is Cree for "awesome!"  We were on our way to Emerald Lake, the largest lake in any of the Canadian national parks.  We stopped to admire the Engineering feats of the Canadian Pacific Rail Road in the design and building of the "Spiral Tunnels."  It seems that the original route which was pushed through in a hurry, had a grade of over 4 degrees.  The consequence of that questionable short cut was that it took five engines pushing, to get a train up the grade, and run-away trains that crashed were an all to frequent occurrence on the down grade.  A very expensive and brilliant solution was borrowed from Swiss railroad builders, large spiral tunnels dug into the mountains through solid rock (three of them, I think) modified the grade and reduced death and destruction.  (Why is it that there is never time to do things right, but always time [and money] to do things over?)  The tunnels themselves were not very visible , though the terrain was scary, and no trains came to offer us a demonstration, so we moved on to Emerald Lake.
It too is scenically arresting and well worth the trip.  If only it weren't so cold and damp, the rain having just ceased.  Emerald Lake as anyone might guess, is alight shade of green.  This comes from "rock flour" that washes down from the mountains, and remains suspended, indefinitely.  Since it is entirely glacier fed, it is cold, cold, cold.  I saw a young couple inflating a kayak and asked them if it had a heated bottom.  They did not seem to get the reference.  I'll bet they did a little later.

Emerald Lake, Yoho National Park

There was one thing of particular interest, there.  We were greeted with a huge caution sign warning of avalanches from November to June!  The lake is surrounded by high mountains which collect large amounts of snow which habitually slide down toward the lake.  One such avalanche slope was easily visible and demonstrated the destructive power of these snow slides.  But, they also bring some good, clearing out large areas of trees for new growth and pasture-like conditions for grazing animals.

Avalanche slope, Emerald Lake, Yoho National Park

Our guide finally allowed us time to eat our bag lunches, all of which had been ordered two months ago, mid afternoon in Field, Alberta, one of the other railroad towns along the Trans Canada Railway, which has now become another tourist mecca.  We were told that there was a lovely picnic area there, and so there was, and it would have been a pretty good place to rest and recuperate if the temperature and the wind would have born less of a chill.  Some sun would have helped, too.  Instead we got a hurried meal with sprinkles and a mad dash to the reception center for warmth.

Continuing the return trip to Banff, we traveled a half and hour to a natural bridge over the Kicking Horse River.  This is a direct result of centuries of erosion, and because of the hard winter and remaining snow pack, all rivers and streams are at almost full flood and ably demonstrating the power of racing water.  The Kicking Horse River was no exception!

Natural bridge on Kicking Horse River, Yoho National Park

There was supposed to be a walk about examination of flora and fauna at some point during the day.  But, the weather being so inclement, we headed back to Banff early, to the delight of everyone on the bus.  Cold and damp is no way to spend June 26!  Our final stop was at the water falls of the Bow River which runs through Banff.  Hardly an event after the experience of the truly spectacular Takakkow Falls, and the wind and the rain were back in force.  So a quick picture and back in the bus for this guy!  I know when I've had enough!

Bow Falls, Banff National Park

There is suppose to be some kind of music program this evening, contemporary, they say.  But, since I haven't cared for much of the music since the 70's, I think I'll pass.  I was thinking about going to the sauna that we were told was here.  But, when I checked into it, there is only a steam room.  So, I think I'll channel surf Canadian T.V., make some tea, read Compline and call it a day. 

More anon.

TGAGAi n Banff - Day 2 - After the Deluge!

"Have your bags outside your door by 6:30," didn't sound much like vacation talk to me.  Nevertheless, I managed to comply with minimal effort since I awoke at 4:00 am, still tired from the trip, but no longer able to sleep.  Breakfast buffet in the dining room was what might be expected at a Best Western Hotel, and despite a delay actually getting the bags to the bus, we were well underway by 8:30, only half an hour late.  Withing 15 minutes, we were seeing the foothills of the Rockies and with a little effort and imagination could barely discern the silhouette of the approaching mountains.

Then came the deluge!  Making out way up the ever steeper and curvier road, the ominous skies opened up and dumped torrents of rain on our distraught company of Bears.  Our first stop was to be Johnston Canyon and its renown waterfalls.  The very idea of stepping outside in such weather seemed impossible, let along navigating narrow mountain trails in search of natural wonders.  A quizzical silence replaced mindless chatter, and we all watched as the view became more and more obscured by the rain and fog.

Gloom and doom were, in this case, premature.  By the time we actually reached Johnston Canyon, the rain had just stopped, the sky was lightening, and new adventures awaited.  When I saw the trail, my anxiety level immediately rose.  The trail to the falls was over half a mile long and looked to be a fairly steep incline.  The trail to the upper falls was a mile and a half!  I decided instantaneously that I had nothing to prove, and the lighter challenge would adequately meet my curiosity quotient.  The trail, though wet and puddle-filled was do-able and the rewards commensurate with my enthusiasm.  I don't know what those more adventurous souls witnessed, but I left satisfied and returned to the departure area with enough time to go into the gift shop and purchase two numbered prints that I think will eventually find a home on my walls.  By the time we left for the final leg to Banff, the sun was making occasional forays into the half spent day.

Arrival at Banff and more particularly the Banff Center for Arts and Creativity, where we will be staying for the rest of the week, was an eye-opener.  Not because of the spectacular mountain scenery, which is certainly abundant and compelling, but because at lunch, the entire tours group was together at the same time.  One hundred and fifteen. Yikes.  Way too much society for me!  My social comfort level is definitely going to feel the strain!  The fourth group are wolves, not moose, BTW.

The afternoon was spent in "orientation" and lectures of a rather esoteric nature.  The first on the history and glories of the Elderhostle/Road Scholar organization, the second on the entire history of the Banff Center for Arts, etc. and its current programs.  The next by cute geologist on the formation of mountain ranges, and particularly the Canadian Rockies.  It contained so much geological jargon that I ended up wondering what I had spent a hour hearing.  Then there was a get-acquainted tour of the Banff Center campus, and finally we got our room assignments, just in time to high-tail it back to the dinning room for dinner, followed by another lecture on Rocks, Ridges and Rivers, by another expert whom, I'm positive, has no self-esteem issues.  He was actually hawking his new book.  Maybe he sold some.  He only managed to put me to sleep, but maybe the accent to the falls had something to do with that, too.

I am here, now, and grateful to be done packing and repacking for a few days.  I still have grave concerns about my ability to keep the pace with this trip, but I see some others who look as decrepit  as I.  Maybe we can find a place in the sun and swap lies while the others exhaust themselves proving how fit they are at their age.

The Great American Get-together in Banff - Day 1

The original idea was to spend a little bit of time in the Canadian Rockies during the hot season in Chicago.  A brief respite from the normal summer in the city discomfort.  As it has happened, We've had practically no hot weather and the humidity has come in the form of cold, uncomfortable rain, fog and wind.  Nevertheless, Banff is supposed to be spectacularly beautiful and inspiring at any time, so I am looking forward to another adventure with my favorite touring company, Road Scholar, with whom I saw China and Southeast Asia.

This trip has not gotten off to a great start!  A kind friend got me to O'hare in plenty of time this morning and dropped me at the designated terminal.  Upon entering to check-in, I was told that this check-in station could not check baggage, but handled only passengers with carry-on.  To check baggage, I was directed to a different terminal, not to far away, by O'hare standards, but far enough!  Of course, there were no clerks, since everything is now self check-in, so, as usual, I struggled with the technology which I'm sure some expert has declared "intuitive" (I do not posses that intuition!), and with a little help from other friendly passengers, finally got my reservation confirmed and boarding pass issued, checked bag weighed, paid for and tagged, and dropped a the counter.  Then, I was directed back to the first terminal for loading and departure.  The gate was at the absolute end of the terminal, and the waiting room had no more than twenty chairs!  A two hour wait!

Once boarded, the flight was uneventful.  Our take-off was delayed by traffic ahead, but I assume that was already figured in the flight time, since our arrival in Calgary was very close to on time.  During the flight, we were treated to half a  soft drink and a small bag of pretzels.  Once again, United Airlines has demonstrated to me its absolute indifference to the comfort and convenience of its passengers.  Oh how I wish there were more and better alternatives.  I'd never darken their door, again!

I thought once we landed in Calgary, we'd get our first glimpse of the Rockies, but, not so.  The typography of Calgary is basically Great Plains, lush and green this time of year, but very flat.  Canadian customs was a breeze, but then the trouble started.  Our instructions were to call the Best Western Plus Hotel when ready to be picked up.  We were told that a shuttle had just left, and the next one would be there at 2:30 pm, another hour and a half wait, this time, also without chairs and outside.  Luckily it was a beautiful day, warm, not hot, and bright sunshine.  At 2:30, no shuttle.  3:00, no shuttle.  By this time the waiting group had grown to about 25 travelers, all tired and hungry and just a little impatient.  Finally, the shuttle showed up but it was clearly too small and was already full from a previous stop.  After a certain period of concern and consternation, the Indian driver told us that we would be transported the eleven minute distance to the hotel by taxis, which were, even at that moment, on the way, and he left.

Sure enough, taxis began to arrive, but none of the drivers knew where to take us.  So, each two or three of the party had to dig out the actual address of the hotel.  The trip was during rush hour, and there was an accident, and so, the trip went from being eleven minutes to half an hour, plus.  Of course, the hotel was not prepared to check-in 25 guests at one time, so there was another long wait-time with no chairs, no refreshments and only the most tepid of welcomes.

Eventually and inevitably, we got checked into our rooms, standard Best Western decor, and had about one hour to unpack and "freshen-up" before dinner was served in the dining room.  It was O.K.  We were divided up into four smaller groups for the tour.  I'm a bear.  There are also cougars, elk and moose, I think.  We had to eat with our group and then go to an orientation that lasted over an hour.  All in all, it was enough for one day.  I'm hopeful that now that we're all present and accounted for, the rest of the trip will be flawless, such as I've come to expect from Road Scholar.  Keeping my fingers crossed!

Update and Explanations!

In my last post, I spoke about my upcoming trip to Southeast Asia and promised to share the experience with whatever followers I had.  Good intentions do not always guarantee good results.  In this case, the best intentions were high jacked by equipment failure.  My trusty iPad, which had been the only vehicle for blogging I had, began acting erratically on the evening of my first day in Yangon.  As I was beginning my first post, the devise suddenly shut off and, after a short rest (?) began to reboot.  I was relieved to be back in control, until two minutes later when the same thing happened.  Even more distressing was the realization that with each shut-down and re-boot, all previous work disappeared, hence, blogging became impossible, and for the duration of the trip, only the briefest and most quickly composed or read emails were possible.  I am truly sorry that none of this adventure got recorded, because it was a trip full of beauty, meaningful cultural engagement and personal fulfillment.

The iPad debacle was not the only mechanical failure I experienced.  On the third day in Began, my trusty Cannon camera which I have used on all previous trips, suddenly refused to turn on.  The tour wrangler and I spent a very informative afternoon searching the streets of Bagan for a replacement, and ultimately found one with the aid of a knowledgeable taxi driver.  Three days later, my old camera suddenly began working again!  So, I now have a backup to take on future adventures.

The fifth day, in Mandalay, I got locked in the bathroom while doing morning clean-up.  Since I was traveling as a single, I hadn't bothered to close the door of the bathroom before, and had not noticed that the lock was on the outside of the door, set to lock.  (Who installs a lock on the outside of a bathroom door?)  I had to break open a sealed window and shout to the street for rescue.  Eventually, of course, the hotel staff came to the rescue, and the worst that happened was that I was a little late for breakfast.

That is the end of the mishaps!  The rest of the trip was without incident of note.  There were a number of surprises, though.  I was sincerely moved by the depth and breadth of Buddhist influences.  The Myanmar experience proved the most revealing, in that visits in the innumerable temples, shrines and stupes do make up what is visible of the cultural history of a people long established in the region.  Evidence of the English colonial period are everywhere in the major cities, and Queen Victoria's presence is still palpable.  In the countryside, life regulated by the seasons of dry and monsoon are clearly discernible, and I'm sure that, except for the ubiquitous satellite dishes and cell phones, life has not changed a great deal for centuries.  I still find it jarring when I think of how many Buddhist monks I saw walking down the street, chatting away on smart phones, and/texting (?).

The high point of the Burma leg was the balloon ride over the temple complex in Bagan.  At one time there were over 10,000 active temples and shrines in the historic district and the ruins of many of them are still quite visible, today.  Several hundreds are still active and thriving, today, and many, which have been damaged by neglect or natural disasters, most notably earthquakes, are being lovingly and carefully restored, many with substantial international assistance.  Once again, I was awed by the extent and penetration of  the influence of Buddhism on the region and the people.

A river trip down the Mekong provided a couple of days of lighter travel demands.  We were there in the dry season, so the mighty Mekong was at a low ebb.  Only smaller boats can navigate the river in the dry season, and we were nicely accommodated in a shallow draft passenger boat during the day, and lavishly accommodated in excellent hotels and hostels at night.  There were several stops, each day to visit "local" villages peopled by various ethnic groups, but in actuality, these were barely disguised tourist stops, as every village had its wares on full display as we arrived.  Differences in house construction and cultural dress were noted.  But, it was the desire for the tourist dollar that motivated the warm welcomes we received.  One unexpected complication for me was that when the Mekong is low, the banks are very high and steep, meaning that each stop at a village or hotel, meant an arduous climb for an old guy who doesn't really do too well at climbing steep inclines.  I'm better on steps, but none appeared!  It was always dirt and sand, with an occasional bamboo handrail.

We stopped in the Golden Triangle, where three major rivers converge and which was at the heart of the Opium trade.  Today, there is an excellent museum in Thailand commemorating the opium industry and its troublesome history.  Due to intensive government efforts, most farmers have been directed to other cash crops, and the opium trade in this region is now mostly a matter of history.  We stayed overnight in a wonderful "tropical" hotel in Chang Rai, and we took a fascinating tour of a local market and had enough down time to relax and get a massage before the rest of the tour began in earnest.

Another border crossing and a bus trip took us to Luang Prabang, the old capitol city of Laos.  I admit to never having heard of this beautiful city and its beautiful people before, but I'm very glad to have had the opportunity to have my world expanded.  In addition to a great night market and excellent restaurants and hotels, Luang Prabang provides a contrast to the heavy handed British presence in Burma.  The French colonial hand was much lighter and far more charming.  Lovely well laid-out streets and modest buildings create a feeling of peace and security.  While there we were treated to a traditional storyteller, traditional dancing, a tour of a weaving cooperative where traditional Lao and upland fabrics are produced in time-honored fashion, and several trips to the night market which offered many opportunities to purchase these beautiful textiles.  One jarring note was the frequent reminders of the American bombing that took place in Laos, a non-combatant in the Vietnam war, and the immense task of locating and removing unexploded ordinance and shrapnel from large areas of the country which have been rendered unusable and unsafe.  This is an enormous task, and the United States who is exclusively responsible has been slow to respond to the call for help.

The last stop on the tour was Cambodia. It promised to be the high point of the trip, and it certainly lived up to expectations.  Engaging with the ancient Khmer Empire proved to be fascinating and eye-opening.  The cities were pictures of modern prosperity in South East Asia, but the countryside demonstrated ecological indifference, with trash and refuse of all types stacking up everywhere.  The tours of Angkor Wat, and Angkor Thom as well as the other sites, some restored and some not, will resonate with me for years to come.

The trip home was uneventful but miserable as all long distance plane travel has come to be.  It took several weeks before I was fully back in Central Standard Time, but I remain determined to see more of this culturally rich part of the world as health and finances allow.  On the future list: Tibet, Singapore, Hong Kong, Thailand.  India will have to wait for another lifetime.