The Last Look

The journey home began with a departure from the Fairmont at 6:30 am.  Eight of us had the same flight on Turkish Air to Istanbul, and then our separate ways thence.  Departure meant another pass through customs and much security, and our flight was an hour late in taking off, which caused not a little concern as the time allotted for transfers in Istanbul was not generous.  I'm sorry to say that this experience in Istanbul international was not a great deal different from my first experience there six years ago, chaotic congestion a transfer points, and, now, extra security checks.  As with the last time, an agent had to come out and "fast-track" those of us who were catching the flight to Chicago, despite the fact that it had already been delayed by more than an hour.  The flight home was very much like the flight there, except that there was no turbulence, it was two hours longer, and I returned to my usual practice of not being able to sleep.  I watched a total of five movies, ate two pretty good meals, and arrived in Chicago, miraculously, on time!  Add an hour and a half for customs, baggage claim, and an extra security check, which I am assuming was a consequence of my coming from Egypt, and I was home by 9:00 pm, and in bed in record time, thereafter.  Adding it all together, from the time I got up in the morning in Cairo, until I hit the bed in Chicago is was 26 hours.  The return to CST has not been easy, but I am confident that eventually all of me will finally be back at home.

I've scanned a few "internal" photos from the Valley of the Kings, and Abu Simbel.  They are offered here as a sample of some of the artistic and engineering marvels recently encountered.

Rather typical relief from tombs in the Valley of the Kings

Celestial boat to the afterlife from tomb of Ramses IX

Burial Chamber of Tutankhamen

Wall art - Tutankhamen making offering to Amun-Ra (?)

Ramses II accepts tribute from conquered people - Abu Simbel

Sunlight penetrates the dark at Abu Simbel

But Ptah, God of the underworld, remains in the dark

In the aftermath of a trip like this one, there are always regrets.  I regret that the time that was allotted for the fabulous museums was so short.  It left me with a feeling that my emergence into Egyptian culture and history was superficial at best.  I wish I had known about other tours of longer duration and less intensity.  I wish I had added a stop in Alexandria to the package, and I wish I were better at managing the settings on my point and shout camera.  But, in the final summation, I was a fine trip, and who can argue with being in Luxor with 70 degree temperatures, while the folks at home are enduring a sub-zero deep freeze!  I call that great planning!

-End-

Curious Old Coots Contend with Cairo

The second to the last day of our tour dawned on a rainy day in Cairo.  The travel literature says that February is the most likely season to have rain, and our experience certainly confirmed that prediction.  The temperature was in the low 60's, and the traffic put us in nearly continuous stop and go mode.  I spent a good part of the day perfecting my reading of Arabic license plates.  It will be interesting to see how long this new-found expertise stays accessible to  me.

The pictures from the day are of poor quality due to lighting issues and photography restrictions in virtually every place we visited.  But, here are a few worth sharing.

Early rainy morning view from my room in the Fairmont Nile

I really hadn't anticipated our first destination.  Travel fatigue, I suppose, but I quickly became engaged and delighted.  We invaded the old Christian section of Cairo with churches dating back to the fourth century A.D.  I was immediately struck with the venerable antiquity of these congregations, and reminded of the dominant role Egyptian Christianity played in the early history of the church, something which is easily overlooked by our Roman/western perspective and historical proximity.

Directory to Ancient Churches in Cairo

 The feeling as we entered this complex of buildings and institutions was of entering a closed and secluded world, as perhaps befits a minority community.  I could not help but wonder if this rabbit-warren type configuration was a result of early persecution under the Romans, or a reaction to the incursion of Islam at  later date.  Under either circumstance, the sense of entering a special, perhaps a sacred space was undeniable.

Just an interesting shot inside the Christian complex

The first church we visited was dedicated to the Holy Family and at its rear, displayed through  Plexiglas flooring a cave like grotto in which the Holy Family was purported to have stayed during their sojourn in Egypt.  Unfortunately, again, there were no pictures allowed.  As might be expected, the iconography highlights the church's dedication.

Relief marking the entrance to Holy Family Church

Coptic Christianity has elaborated the Holy Family's stay in Egypt to an extent unexplored in the western Church, and maybe in the Orthodox traditions as well.  I was fascinated by this "map" of the Holy Family's travels in Egypt, and I hope in the coming days and months to investigate this tradition more fully.  This map will have to be my starting point.

The Holy Family itinerary?

The second church we visited was the fourth century Church of St. Sergius, called the hanging church, due to construction techniques used at the time of its building.

Information plaque for the Hanging Church

The Hanging Church

The inside of the church is beautifully decorated in the worn "orthodox" style that befits its age and use.  No pictures allowed, of course, but our timing was excellent because we were able to witness a part of a Coptic mass with a good number of the faithful in attendance.  Whether this was appreciated by other members our tour group or not, I cannot say, but I was gratified to have had even this limited exposure to Coptic liturgy and piety.

Shrine to the Virgin Mary - Church of St. Sergius

Our next stop was in the old Muslim section of Cairo where there are a number of mosques dating from the 8th and 9th century.   We visited a huge one that allowed pictures, but had little to photograph, being stark and unadorned in the fashion of its time.

Mosque interior

Central ablution station (no longer in use)

Perhaps one of the more memorable impressions from this stop was the police presence, insuring that tourists did not venture into the surrounding neighborhood(s).  We spent an hour or so at the Cairo bazaar.  Mohamed had discouraged much shopping on this trip because, he said, most of the things that were available for sale were not Egyptian but Chinese in origin, and for the most part he seemed to be correct.  The one exception, I believe, was the Cairo bazaar which teamed with beautiful and riveting displays in every shop.  Covering several blocks, it seemed more diverse in its offerings than other bazaars I'd seen in the Middle East.  And, there were plenty of things to temp this shopper, had I been able to figure out a way to get it back to Chicago.  Thankfully, good sense prevailed and I left, empty handed, as did most of our contingent.

After a nice lunch in a rather exotic restaurant which was too dark to photograph, we made our way through Cairo traffic back to the hotel.  Along the way we passed the famous Tahrir Square, where Egyptians effectively  protested the government of Mubarck in 2011, and then his replacement Morsi in 2013.  It was obviously a more peaceful time under the present regime.  During the course of the trip, we heard comments both supporting and criticizing the Sisi military oversight, and, people seemed free to speak freely, which says something in itself.

Tahrir Square on an ordinary, rainy day

After a brief rest, we were off to the Egyptian Museum.  This is the famous collection of Egyptian artifacts from the last five of six millennia.   No pictures, allowed!

The Egyptian Museum

The number of arresting displays contained in this building is incomprehensible.  Once again, our time was so brief that the most thorough knowledge we obtained was what we were missing.  Mummies, sarcophagi, jewelry, tools, weapons, statuary, carvings, more than can be assimilated in an afternoon or in a lifetime.  It is no wonder that Egyptology has so many sub-specialties!  I saw again the treasures of King Tut, last see by me at the Field Museum sometime in the earl 1960s, and treasures from many other less famous tombs which nevertheless carry high archaeology value.  I took interest in the Mummies of Ramses II, whom I'm sure would be horrified to know that he has become a tourist spectacle, and of Hatshepsut (maybe) whom the placard stated was chronically obese and had bad teeth.  How's that for a memorial epithet?

Aswan. Adieu!

Our last day in Aswan was just good clean tourist fun.  Plenty of time for a nice breakfast and a reasonable departure time from the hotel made for an auspicious beginning that suited me just fine.  Check-out was easy, our final water shuttle journey, uneventful, and a short (really short) bus ride to the next boat launch kept the pace light and easy.  Our destination was Elephantine Island for a tour of "The Tombs of the Nobles" and Saint Simeon Monastery, and lunch, of course.

Elephantine Island is a desolate place that doesn't seem to draw any benefit from being in the middle of the Nile.  Much to my surprise, we were greeted by a host of camels and their handlers, who, we were informed were going to be an integral part of our exploration!  Some of our party immediately opted out and stayed with the boat which was offered as an option, but the whole idea appealed to me, so I picked out my camel, and we were off.

Elephantine Island Mass Transit System

First stop, Tombs of the Nobles.  These tombs are among some of the oldest in Egypt, dating back to the Old Kingdom.  Their inhabitants were important people of their time, governors, high-ranking administrators et cetera, and in some cases, their wives and families.  Obviously, they are no where near as grand as the tombs of the kings and queens, but impressive, just the same, and for a change, photography was allowed!

Entrance to one of several tombs complexes

Mohamed the educator at work!

 Our next destination was an hour camel ride to the ruins of the Monastery of Saint Simeon.  This monastery was built in the 7th century, and, at its peak, housed 300 monks and had room for 100 guests.  It was built around the "cell" of a 4th century desert monk named Anba Hedra, commemorated as St. Simeon by the Coptic Church.  He was a devotee of St. Anthony of the Desert and like his mentor, a lunatic solitary of that era.   These desert fathers and mothers were all nuts, and their ascetic practices made them even nuttier.  St. Simeon, for example, sculpted a niche into the ceiling of his cell to which he attached his beard (Mohamed said, his hair), and bore an additional hole nearby for his finger to be inserted, so that he would not be able to fall asleep during his endless prayer times.

The "cell" of Anba Hedra

His beard/hair stanchion

The ruins of mud brick and stone are impressive even though they have remained essentially unchanged since the monastery was attacked and destroyed by Saladin in 1173.  Areas like the guest house and the sanctuary and choir are easily identifiable, and I have to admit to feeling a modicum of spiritual power still emanating from the place.  It is hard to imagine what life must have been like for those living in this desolate site 1,500 years ago.  Mohamed said that they supported themselves by making and selling pottery.  To whom?  Where?  It must have been a model of organization and cooperation since the nearest water is the Nile, nearly a mile away and no vegetation to be found!  Like I said, NUTS!

Guesthouse, Saint Simeon Monastery

Choir Apse, Saint Simeon Monastery

As we were ready to depart, we discovered that our camels were missing.  We were informed that the handlers had taken them for water, and they would be back soon, and sure enough, on the horizon, a herd of galloping camels soon appeared.  I have to say that those "ships of the desert" appeared far happier than when plodding along at tourist pace with our unskilled, naive group on their backs.  The most precarious part of riding a camel is getting on and getting off, which I accomplished today on three separate occasions.  The second most precarious part is holding your seat on any downhill grade.  Maybe, stirrups would help?  Or a seat belt!

Me and Lolo the camel (with an attitude!)

Friends for a day (and a fee)

After a nice lunch and much appreciated rest stop at an island restaurant, we were again shore bound to a bus and a short trip to the Aswan Airport.  On our way out of town, I was able to capture a fleeting picture of St. Mark's Coptic Church in Aswan, a site I much regret not being able to visit.  It is a most impressive complex in a highly visible locations and seems to speak to a vital Christian presence in a predominantly Muslim world.  I wish I had had an opportunity to learn more about it.

Saint Mark's Coptic Church, Aswan, Egypt

If there was anything remarkable about our flight to Cairo, I don't recall it.  I think there was enough time for some refreshment of some kind, and I should add that universally, the cabin staff on Egypt Air on all our encounters was courteous and efficient, something, I always notice and appreciate.

Welcome sign at Cairo Airport

Once again we were snarled in Cairo traffic.  Even though our hotel was downtown, it took well over and hour to reach it.  During the ordeal, I decided to learn the ordinal numerals in Arabic by decoding the licence plates on passing cars.  By the time we reached the hotel, I had identified them all except for the zero.  Yes, it was that boring!  However, when we checked into the Fairmont Nile City, all was forgiven, and I luxuriated along with my fellow travelers for two nights in the best run and most gracious lodging of the entire trip!

In the evening, and before a lavish dinner, we had a lecture from an amazingly concise and well prepared PhD in Islamic studies.  She gave the most coherent explanation of Islamic faith and practice I've ever encountered (and I've heard a few).  She was ready to answer any and all questions which the group had, but, in fact, she left us nothing to ask about.  It was that thorough!  So, it was off to dinner and prep for the adventures of the morrow.

Joining the Jet Set at Abu Simbel

Today was the most relaxed beginning we've had this entire trip!  Plenty of time for a nice breakfast and a 9:45 am departure from the hotel to the Aswan Airport for a short flight to Abu Simbel and the two temples built by Ramses II.  We went through the routine check-in and security procedures and boarded the Egyptair jet, only to discover that our tour group were the only passengers.  I couldn't help but reflect on the absurdity of being asked for our seat preference, when in fact, everyone on board could easily have had a aisle or a window, anywhere on the plane.  It was such a short trip that the cabin attendants barely got beverages and "biscuits" served and retrieved before we landed.  We were also the only people in the Abu Simbel airport!  That felt weird!  This must be how the other half lives.

Our Private Jet

Despite some reservations, I'm going to try to write intelligently about Abu Simbel.  There is some disagreement about its purpose.  It is a massive structure carved out of a limestone cliff.  The internal decorations suggest that it was intended as a celebration of the military victories of Ramses II, most particularly over the Hittites at Kadesh in 1274 B.C.  It's location suggests another more strategic purpose.  Built at the site of the Second Cataract of the Nile, it also clearly marks the border between Egypt and the Nubian/Kushite Kingdoms of Sudan, perhaps a clear warning not to transgress into Ramses domain.  (History shows that it was ineffective, ultimately)  For me, the most astounding feature of the Great Temple, dedicated to Amun-Ra (and Ramses, of course), is the precision and engineering genius with which it was built.  It is situated facing East, so that on two days, each year, the sun, at sunrise pierces the dark interior to illuminate three of the four statues at the rear of the temple.  The statues of Ramses and Amun are lit, while the last statue of Ptah, the god of the underworld, remains in darkness.  The dates are February 22 and October 22, the beginning and end of the flood season, but probably more important in this case, the birthday and coronation day of Ramses II.

The Great Temple at Abu Simbel

The interior and even the exterior of the temple is beautifully preserved with some of the most brilliant and refined images we have seen, and true to current practice, there are no photographs allowed.  The excellent state of preservation is a consequence of the entire temple being buried in sand for centuries.  It was rediscovered in 1817 by a Swiss archaeologist, who excavated it and initiated and enforced limited access during his work.

A few yards to the right of the Great Temple is the Small Temple, which was built to honor Ramses' favorite wife, Nefertiri.  It is also beautifully preserved for the same reason, and it is a true testimony to her importance.  The Second Cataract was believed to be sacred to Hathor, and she is the honored goddess of this temple.  Contrary to custom, all the images of Nefertiri are of equal height to Ramses, which attests to the esteem paid to her.  Queens were usually depicted no more than knee-high.  The images on the facade are of Ramses and Hathor, or maybe Nefertiri as an embodiment of Hathor, also a sign of very high rank and esteem.

The Small Temple at Abu Simbel

Both of these temples (which some claim should be the eighth wonder of the ancient world), were saved from inundation under Lake Nassar when the High Dam was built in the 1960s.  A massive United Nations sponsored effort dismantled and reassembled the two temples on the plateau 65 meters above their original location, in with the same orientation.  Unfortunately, the additional elevation has altered the "lighting" at the rear of the Great Temple by one day, still, in my mind, the rescue effort is almost as amazing a feat in engineering as the original builders accomplished 3,000 years ago.

Unfortunately our jet-setting adventure was over, and we boarded the bus for our return to Aswan.  Four hours of Egyptian desert with nary an animal or a bird is a challenge to intentional awareness.  The only thing that was truly memorable about the trip were the speed bumps, placed at frequent intervals, requiring almost a full stop.  I couldn't help wondering, "Why?"  No answer alas, was forthcoming!

Egypt, without the Nile!

This last picture is of the launch site for out island hotel.  Note the bags of pita bread awaiting transfer to the kitchen and dining room of our gracious, temporary abode.

Pita, pita!!

All Aboard for Aswan!

Today began early, once again.  We had to catch a train to Aswan, and Mohamed, our wrangler was particularly anxious about punctuality.  The Egyptian train schedule, it seems, is subject to sudden fluctuations, usually of the overdue kind, but occasionally of the early kind.  Check-out at the hotel was complicated by, what appears to have been a management gambit to extract more money from the guests.  I was presented with a bill for wine at dinner, which I offered to pay with my 39 year chip from Alcoholics Anonymous, and tour friends in front and behind were charged for items from their mini-bar which they had not used.  This was only the final chapter in the story of the stay at Sofitel Pavillon Winter Luxor.  The front desk staff were surly, the floor staff were greedy, the cleaning staff was haphazard and did not replace bottled water that was used (room service would bring more for a fee, of course, a clear warning sign for the check-out debacle soon to follow), and the food choices in the dining room, while tasty, well prepared and well served, were meager by tourist hotel standards.

The departure from Luxor paid one nice benefit.  Mohamed became a little more engaging.  He half-way apologized for his drill sergeant behavior by explaining that he was trying to maintain a schedule set by Road Scholar which did not take into account the vicissitudes of Egyptian travel.  He had plenty of time, since, truer to form than not, the train arrived 45 minutes late.  Mohamed's relieved comment was, "It was almost on time!"

Your carriage has arrived!

There was a further delay occasioned by the make-over of the sleeping car into a day "coach."  This included waking up some of the inhabitants of the compartments which had been reserved for our group, and waiting for the porters to complete their day-time transformation.  It was worth the wait!

Sleeper car turned compartment (with box breakfast and sun hat)

I haven't a lot to say about the rail trip which took about three hours.  Egypt Rail served a nice breakfast tray, in addition to the box breakfast we took away from the hotel.  Overall the trip reminded me of rail travel on the old Illinois Central in the 1960's.  About that bad!  Lunch at a local restaurant upon arrival seemed a little redundant, but as a life-long member of the "clean plate club," I upheld the required standards. 

After lunch, it was off to the Nubian Museum.  This was a wonderful museum which received no where near the attention it deserves.  If I ever return to Egypt, high on my to-do list will be a day at the Nubian Museum in Aswan.  Once again, time  did not permit more than a thorough introduction to what we were missing.

Nubian Pharaoh

 At the end of the New Kingdom of Egypt, the Kingdom of Kush became the predominant power along the Nile, and for the next generations, all the Pharaohs were black.  Much of this history is incorporated in the Nubian Museum, including detailed exhibits of life in Nubian villages, farms, fisheries, cities and fortifications.  Of course, the lighting was dark and no flash was allowed, so pictures of these exhibits are unusable.  This is a history that fascinates me, and maybe I'll get around to studying it, one of these days.  One of the theories about the famous biblical "Queen of Sheba" is that she was from Kush, hence her title "Kandake," a title reserved for Queens or mothers of Kings in the Kushite dynasties.

Detachment of Nubian Soldiers armed for battle

A model of a  typical Kushite fortification

Our next adventure was a sail on the Nile in one of the more-less-traditional model sailing vessels that have been the work horses of commerce for centuries.  Not much to report, here.  We sailed up river for a few miles, tacking all the way under full sail, then turning for a leisurely return to the dock and onto another motorized craft to take us to our Movenpick Hotel, Swiss, I'm told, on an island in the middle of the Nile.  It was definitely an improvement although making the trek from the boat launch to the hotel lobby, up tiers (and tiers) of steps, which we had to do several times, quickly grew old.

Sailing the Nile, bustling with tourists.

Movenpick Hotel, our island home in Aswan

 We had a couple of hours before our next departure.   Some of our company took the water shuttle back across the river to shop in the local market, which had been touted to us as "the place to buy authentic souvenirs.  Having been up since 3:30 am, and with an evening schedule yet to meet, I thought a nap would be a better use of my time.  As it turns out, I was right.  The shoppers came back disappointed, and I was ready for the next agenda item.

That was a tour of the Philae Temple, an important temple to Isis, which was dismantled and reconstructed in Aswan before it would have been lost forever under the waters of Lake Nasser.  It is truly an impressing temple, and all the more so for the engineering and construction genius that has preserved it.  The big attraction was to be a sound and light show at the temple, which turned out to be some sort of really bad re-enactment of a dialogue between the River God and Isis about the changelessness of the eternal realities (I think), with upper crust British actors who must have received their thespian training in high school Greek drama.  I think I speak for the entire group when I say it was the nadir of the entire tour.  A few nice pictures, though.

Philae Temple of Isis at night

Roaming Royal Relics - Part II

Our second day in Luxor was memorable, but a little more casual than those that had preceded it.  For one thing, everyone seemed to have had the best night's sleep since arriving, which only indicates that, finally, we were all on Egyptian time which is GMT -1 or 2, I think.  Being rested makes everything easier!  Our hotel was located on the grounds of the Winter Palace of King Farouk, who was deposed in the early or mid-fifties, but who obviously knew how  to live well.

Farouk Winter Palace - Front Porch (?)

Winter Palace Pool and Garden

Our destination was back across the Nile to the West Bank (I kept hearing echos from my time in New Orleans) to the Mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut and the Valley of the Queens.

I should take a minute to comment on the East Bank/West Bank distinction in both ancient and present day Egypt.  In the ancient religion, the West Bank represented death and resurrection, while the East Bank represented birth and life.  Consequently, tombs were across the river (the Nile, not the Jordan) and the cities all were built on the rising sun side.  There were plenty of cities on the West Bank, but they were dedicated to building, decorating or interring the departed, hence, not permanent.  At Luxor, the "preferred" entrance to the realm of the dead was marked by two colossi which stand today as testimony to the importance of this transitional entry point.

Ancient entrance point to the land of the dead

I will always remember this scene because I was trying to take it in when I slipped and fell out of the bus and created some o the most spectacular bruises I've ever obtained.  They are only faded to shadows at the time of this writing, two weeks later.  There is some comfort in knowing that I am still capable of a bounce instead of a break, so, I take some comfort in that!

Hatshepsut was born a princess and married Tuthmosis II, becoming Queen.  When her husband died suddenly at a fairly early age, Hatshepsut "graciously agreed" to be regent for her step son, until he should come of age to assume full power.  She liked the job, and kept it for many years, ultimately having herself crowned "Pharaoh," and reigning successfully and powerfully for many (30+) years, I think.  Her mortuary temple is hewn out of a limestone mountainside.  She had a daughter whom she forced her step-son to marry (following a beloved Egyptian custom of marring siblings), thus becoming both step mother and mother-in-law to the man whose rightful place she had usurped.  When he did finally achieve the throne, he had all her monuments, including her tomb, destroyed and defaced, and attempted to wipe her name from the records, which he succeed in doing, until later archaeologists discovered the cover-up and restored her name to the list of important pharaohs of the New Kingdom. 

Mortuary Temple(s) of Queen Hatshepsut

The Lady, herself, as she wanted to be remembered
  

The Entrance to Queen Hatshepsut's burial chamber 

Even in its desecrated state, it is still a most impressive testimonial to the Queen's power and ambition.  The complex is bookended by a Temple to Amun-Ra on one side and Hathor on the other.  The lady chose her resurrected life companions with some care!  Interestingly enough, the elaborate mortuary temple complex that Tuthmosis III built for his own glorification lies in ruins in the shadow of the memorial he attempted to destroy.  He obviously never got the better of his wicked step mother!

What's left of Tuthmosis III's monument

Our next stop was the Valley of the Queens.  There are 75 or 80 tombs at this location, most of which are not open.  We were able to see into three, the day we were there.  They are also off limits to camera, and are smaller, but no less impressive for their accompanying art and craftsmanship.  Since most "Queens" were buried in the tombs of their husbands, these represent mostly lesser queens and princes.  The location is as desolate as its more famous male-dominated counterpart.

Entrance to the Valley of the Queens

Upon returning to the hotel, a shopping party was organized to find a place to purchase, or at least shop for Egyptian cotton.  Several suggested places were closed.  But, eventually one was found and contrary to my better inclination, I found some T-shirts and two galabiyas (the traditional gown of Egyptian men) which called out for purchase.  I'm not sure how the galabiyas will be used.  Probably early morning dress in the summer.  I did not purchase the traditional headgear and no pictures will be forthcoming.

Our next stop was the Luxor Museum which contains exhibits of artifacts located or unearth from the area.  It is very rich and requires at least a day and a lifetime to take in.  Unfortunately we had only a little over an hour, just enough time to become aware of how much was being missed.  I captured a couple of memorable displays on camera.  One I'll share is a rare bust of Akhenaten the heretic, born Amenhotep IV, who was father to King Tut.  His attempt to turn Egyptian religion into a monotheistic one, was met with powerful resistance, and his shrines and monuments were all but obliterated after his death.  This highly stylized statue hints at his true features in an elongated and exaggerated presentation which reflects his artistic preferences.  He was one of a kind!

Akhenaten/Amenhotep IV - Luxor Museum

I'm going to end this post with two pictures.  Luxor Temple in the day, and a rather poor one of Luxor temple at night.

And now, it's on to Aswan!