Tuesday, June 26, 2018

TGAGT in Banff - Day 3 - Fall(s)

It was a beautiful morning here in Banff.  The temperature, a bracing 43 degrees, Fahrenheit.  Had I only known that was approximately the high temperature for the day, I would have radically altered my wardrobe selections!  The only times during the entire day, I was adequately dressed were the times spent on the bus.  I should have brought fall clothing instead of "cool" summer stuff.


Pretty promptly at 8:00 am we headed west toward the continental divide. Our initial destination was Takakkow Falls, the third largest in Canada, at 700+ feet.  We traveled over the Trans Canada Highway which basically parallels the Trans Canada Railway, until we turned off on an access road which was narrow and windy, and at one point, required our driver to back up a switchback so that we could proceed!  We caught several views of the falls before we were actually there, each more impressive than the last.  Finally, we stood across from the splash zone, engulfed by the mist, and the slow drizzle that had begun by this time.  It was still in the 40's.  Takakkow means "It is magnificent" in Cree, and so it is.  Probably even better in sunshine and 75 degrees!

Takakkaw Falls: It is magnificent!

After a return trip  on the same mountain road (this time backing down the switchbacks), we were again on the Trans Canada Highway.   At some point I'm not at all clear about, we left Banff National Park and entered Yoho National Park.  Yoho, we were told, is Cree for "awesome!"  We were on our way to Emerald Lake, the largest lake in any of the Canadian national parks.  We stopped to admire the Engineering feats of the Canadian Pacific Rail Road in the design and building of the "Spiral Tunnels."  It seems that the original route which was pushed through in a hurry, had a grade of over 4 degrees.  The consequence of that questionable short cut was that it took five engines pushing, to get a train up the grade, and run-away trains that crashed were an all to frequent occurrence on the down grade.  A very expensive and brilliant solution was borrowed from Swiss railroad builders, large spiral tunnels dug into the mountains through solid rock (three of them, I think) modified the grade and reduced death and destruction.  (Why is it that there is never time to do things right, but always time [and money] to do things over?)  The tunnels themselves were not very visible , though the terrain was scary, and no trains came to offer us a demonstration, so we moved on to Emerald Lake.
It too is scenically arresting and well worth the trip.  If only it weren't so cold and damp, the rain having just ceased.  Emerald Lake as anyone might guess, is alight shade of green.  This comes from "rock flour" that washes down from the mountains, and remains suspended, indefinitely.  Since it is entirely glacier fed, it is cold, cold, cold.  I saw a young couple inflating a kayak and asked them if it had a heated bottom.  They did not seem to get the reference.  I'll bet they did a little later.

Emerald Lake, Yoho National Park

There was one thing of particular interest, there.  We were greeted with a huge caution sign warning of avalanches from November to June!  The lake is surrounded by high mountains which collect large amounts of snow which habitually slide down toward the lake.  One such avalanche slope was easily visible and demonstrated the destructive power of these snow slides.  But, they also bring some good, clearing out large areas of trees for new growth and pasture-like conditions for grazing animals.

Avalanche slope, Emerald Lake, Yoho National Park

Our guide finally allowed us time to eat our bag lunches, all of which had been ordered two months ago, mid afternoon in Field, Alberta, one of the other railroad towns along the Trans Canada Railway, which has now become another tourist mecca.  We were told that there was a lovely picnic area there, and so there was, and it would have been a pretty good place to rest and recuperate if the temperature and the wind would have born less of a chill.  Some sun would have helped, too.  Instead we got a hurried meal with sprinkles and a mad dash to the reception center for warmth.

Continuing the return trip to Banff, we traveled a half and hour to a natural bridge over the Kicking Horse River.  This is a direct result of centuries of erosion, and because of the hard winter and remaining snow pack, all rivers and streams are at almost full flood and ably demonstrating the power of racing water.  The Kicking Horse River was no exception!

Natural bridge on Kicking Horse River, Yoho National Park
There was supposed to be a walk about examination of flora and fauna at some point during the day.  But, the weather being so inclement, we headed back to Banff early, to the delight of everyone on the bus.  Cold and damp is no way to spend June 26!  Our final stop was at the water falls of the Bow River which runs through Banff.  Hardly an event after the experience of the truly spectacular Takakkow Falls, and the wind and the rain were back in force.  So a quick picture and back in the bus for this guy!  I know when I've had enough!

Bow Falls, Banff National Park

There is suppose to be some kind of music program this evening, contemporary, they say.  But, since I haven't cared for much of the music since the 70's, I think I'll pass.  I was thinking about going to the sauna that we were told was here.  But, when I checked into it, there is only a steam room.  So, I think I'll channel surf Canadian T.V., make some tea, read Compline and call it a day. 

More anon.













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