Sunday, September 8, 2019

Meet the Puebloans.

Day 2-- too early.  Typically, I awakened a little after 3 am, having slept about 5 hours.  Even taking into account that I'd gained an hour with mountain time, it was not enough.  So I forced myself to try to return to sleep, eventually giving up and using the rest of the night to continue my reading in Ancient Peoples of the American Southwest, one of the recommended books I purchased in anticipation of this trip.  It's actually quite a good read, but, as I discovered in our first lecture from Richard Friedman, our touring archaeologist, presents only one perspective among reasonable and accepted ones regarding the history and achievements of the ancient Puebloans.  Friedman has worked in this field for 40 years and strives to impart far more information than I can take in.  So, after a decent Hilton breakfast and a mind numbing lecture and slide show by Richard, we boarded a bus and headed for the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center.

Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, Albuquerque, New Mexico
There are currently nineteen surviving Pueblo communities living in New Mexico and despite speaking three different languages and multiple dialects, they have banded together to create this center to introduce and illuminate their history, culture and contemporary expression.  As one might expect, there are displays of ancient artifacts, dioramas, videos, all showing aspects of Pueblo life as it was and is.  As the self-guided tour winds its way through Pueblo history, art and culture, one eventually ends up at a very expensive gift shop featuring the work of regional artisans, and, of course, the predictable trove of souvenirs.  The jewelry, pottery and textiles are all of excellent quality with price tags to match!  I nearly bought a T-shirt, but was saved by the absence of one in an appropriate size.  Whew!  There is also a restaurant where we had a lunch of blue corn enchiladas, beans and summer squash.  The tour ended at the dance floor where we were treated to examples of "the butterfly dance," and "the eagle dance."

Butterfly Dance

The Eagle Dance
Around the dance floor there were local artisans displaying and selling their pieces.  These were much more reasonable in price and of comparable quality with the gift shop items, and I was sorely tempted to buy a exquisite piece of pottery.  But, reluctantly decided that I did not want to be responsible for such a fragile item during the rest of the trip.  My experience from the past tells me that there will be ample, future opportunities for a similar, suitable expenditure.  On the way out, I took this shot of a truly arresting sculpture by a contemporary Pueblo artist.


Our next visit was to the Petroglyph National Monument on the outskirts of Albuquerque (if I get nothing else from this trip, I've at least learned to spell Albuquerque).  The monument is situated in the basalt rocks of an ancient lava flow.

The edge of the ancient lava flow

Getting to the actual petroglyphs required a hike of some distance over sand in 95 degree heat.  For the effort it took and the discomfort engendered, I would say that it was hardly worth it.  I saw better petroglyphs at Capitol Reef National Park in Utah last year.  These were pretty unimaginative and scarce, and had obviously been amended over the years to include "Bill" who at some point added his own contribution.  The most valuable lesson for me was that there were other people in this tour who struggled more on this adventure than I did--some comfort to me as I have carried a concern about my fitness for the three mile a day warning that comes with the designation of the Road Scholar activity level of "Let's Go."  So far, so good!

Petroglyphs on basalt with spectator

As clouds began to roll in, I couldn't help but take a picture or two of the high desert on the long, tedious trek back to the bus.

Still hot and sweaty, we stopped at a whimsical restaurant for a dinner that no one wanted since it was less than three hours since we finished lunch.  Nearly everyone selected the "fresh berry salad with salmon," and we headed back to the Hilton for another lecture and slide show by Richard on current innovations in archaeological research and a movie on Chaco Canyon, narrated by Robert Redford.  I think I only nodded of once!  I gratefully fell into bed at 9:30.
Whimsical restaurant in Albuquerque called "Home Range" (I think)





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